The Cone Flower Hair Clip: A Collector’s Guide to British Vintage Design

When you first hold a cone flower hair clip, the weight surprises you. Not heavy, but substantial — a deliberate heft that speaks of metal and enamel rather than lightweight plastic. The petals fan out in a perfect radial symmetry, each one gently cupped, rising toward a central cone that mimics the seed head of an echinacea or rudbeckia. This is not a clip you hide behind your ear; it is a statement piece, a tiny sculpture designed to be seen.

Unlike the flat, painted flowers of many vintage barrettes, the cone flower clip is three-dimensional. The petals are often die-struck from brass or silver-toned metal, then hand-painted or coated in coloured enamel. The centre cone may be a separate piece, sometimes textured to resemble the spiny dome of a real coneflower. The clip mechanism is typically a spring-loaded alligator clip or a French snap clasp, depending on the era and manufacturer. These details matter to collectors because they reveal the clip’s provenance — and its place in the story of British hair accessories.

A Brief History of the Cone Flower Clip

The cone flower motif gained traction in British accessory design during the 1950s and 1960s, a period when botanical forms were reimagined in jewellery and hair ornaments. The post-war appetite for cheerful, natural shapes coincided with advances in enamel work and metal stamping. Small manufacturers in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter and London’s Hatton Garden produced these clips in limited runs, often as part of seasonal collections.

One notable maker, whose name appears faintly on the back of some clips, was FloraCraft — a short-lived company that operated between 1954 and 1962. Their cone flower clips came in six colourways: buttercup yellow, coral pink, dove grey, sage green, midnight blue, and black. The black version, surprisingly, is the rarest; only a handful have surfaced at vintage fairs in the UK. The colours were not arbitrary — they were chosen to complement the popular dress silhouettes of the era, from fitted day dresses to cocktail sheaths.

Another important source is the work of independent designers who sold their pieces through Liberty of London and small boutiques. These clips often feature hallmarked silver or gold-plated backs, and the enamel work is of a higher quality — vitreous enamel fired at high temperatures, rather than cold-painted resin. If you find a cone flower clip with a hallmark, you have a piece of wearable art.

Anatomy of a Cone Flower Clip

To evaluate a cone flower clip, look at three elements:

• The petals — Are they uniform in shape? Original clips have petals that are slightly irregular, a sign of hand-finishing. The edges should be smooth, not sharp. Enamel should be glossy and free of chips (though minor wear is acceptable for a vintage piece).
• The centre cone — It should sit firmly in the middle, not wobble. On better examples, the cone is cross-hatched or stippled to imitate the texture of a seed head. Some cones are painted a contrasting colour, such as brown or dark green.
• The clasp — Most common is the alligator clip with a metal spring. Test the tension: it should snap shut with a clean click. French snap clasps (a flat metal bar that folds over) appear on earlier, more delicate clips. Avoid clips where the spring is rusted or the hinge is loose.

One of the most charming details is the back of the clip. Many British manufacturers stamped their name or a patent number there. A patent number from the 1950s often begins with “GB” followed by a six-digit number. You can sometimes date the clip by looking up the patent — though that requires a trip to the British Library’s online archive. For most collectors, the stamp itself is enough to confirm authenticity.

Styling the Cone Flower Clip Today

The cone flower clip is surprisingly versatile. Because of its strong silhouette, it works best when the hair is pulled back or up, allowing the clip to sit clearly against the head. A low chignon or a French twist provides a clean canvas. If you have shorter hair, try clipping it at the side, just above the ear, with the flowers pointing forward.

For modern outfits, consider the colour of the clip. A sage green cone flower clip pairs beautifully with a cream linen blazer or a khaki trench coat. The coral pink version adds a pop of warmth to a navy cashmere jumper. Black clips are dramatic against grey or white hair — many collectors specifically seek out the black FloraCraft version for this reason. You can also mix two cone flower clips of different colours, placed asymmetrically, for a playful nod to the 1960s.

If you are wearing a floral dress, choose a clip that picks up one of the dress’s accent colours rather than the dominant flower shade. The cone shape echoes the natural world without being literal, so it avoids the “matchy-matchy” trap.

Care and Preservation

Enamel and metal require gentle handling. After each wear, wipe the clip with a soft, dry cloth to remove hairspray or oils. Never submerge it in water — moisture can seep under the enamel and cause it to lift. If the metal tarnishes, use a jewellery polishing cloth designed for gold or silver, but avoid the enamel area. For stubborn dirt on the enamel, a barely damp cotton bud with a drop of mild soap is safe, but dry immediately.

Store cone flower clips individually in a fabric-lined box or a pouch. Do not let them jumble together, as petals can scratch each other. Some collectors keep them pinned to a small velvet board — this also makes a lovely display. Keep them away from direct sunlight, which can fade the enamel over time, especially the lighter colours.

Finding Authentic Cone Flower Clips

British vintage fairs remain the best hunting ground. The Newark Antiques Fair, the Ardingly Antiques Fair, and smaller local events in the Home Counties often turn up these clips. Online auction sites can yield results, but you must scrutinise photos. Look for close-ups of the clasp and the back stamp. Be wary of modern reproductions that use resin instead of enamel — resin feels lighter and has a slightly plastic sheen. An authentic cone flower clip will have a cool, dense feel in your hand.

Prices vary widely. A common colourway in good condition might cost £20–£40. A rare black FloraCraft clip with a mint clasp can fetch £80 or more. Clips with hallmarked silver backs start at £60. If you see a clip described as “vintage” but with a perfect, machine-made finish and no patina, it is likely a contemporary piece inspired by the vintage design — charming in its own right, but not a true cone flower clip.

For those new to collecting, start with a single clip in a colour you love. Wear it a few times, learn how it feels, and let it lead you to its companions. The cone flower clip is not just an accessory; it is a small piece of British design history that sits quietly in your hair, waiting for someone to notice the petals.