The Chrysanthemum Colours 3: A Collector’s Guide to Three Vintage Hair Accessory Hues

The chrysanthemum has long been a beloved motif in British decorative arts, and its appearance in vintage hair accessories is no exception. By the 1950s, small British manufacturers were producing hair combs and clips stamped or carved with chrysanthemum blooms, often in sets of three distinct colourways. The “Chrysanthemum Colours 3” refers to a specific series—likely a trio of hues that appeared together in catalogues from the mid-20th century. These three shades are not merely decorative; they reflect the material innovations and aesthetic preferences of the time.

Before we examine each colour, it helps to understand the materials. Most chrysanthemum-patterned hair accessories from the 1940s through the 1960s were made from cellulose acetate or early thermoplastics. Unlike the heavy Bakelite of earlier decades, these materials allowed for translucent, layered effects that mimicked the delicate petals of a real chrysanthemum. The three colours in this series were chosen to work with the most popular hair tones of the era—chestnut, ash blonde, and silver-grey—but they also stand alone as collector’s treasures today.

The Three Hues

1. Golden Amber (often labelled “Honey Chrysanthemum”)

This is the warmest of the three, a translucent amber that catches light like preserved honey. In vintage catalogues, it was sometimes called “Honey Chrysanthemum” or simply “Amber.” The colour was achieved by adding iron oxide pigments to the cellulose acetate base, creating a gradient from pale yellow at the edges to a deep orange-brown at the centre of the comb. Golden Amber pieces are the most common of the trio, but condition is critical: exposure to sunlight can turn the amber muddy or cause it to darken unevenly. When you find a piece with even, glowing translucency, you have a gem.

2. Crimson Chrysanthemum (or “Ruby Bloom”)

A deep, wine-red shade that was surprisingly difficult to produce consistently. The pigment used—often a blend of azo dyes—tended to fade or shift toward brown under UV light. Crimson Chrysanthemum pieces are therefore rarer in good condition. The colour was intended to evoke the rich red of late-blooming chrysanthemums, and it pairs beautifully with navy, charcoal, or cream. In the 1950s, these clips were marketed as “Ruby Bloom” and often featured a slightly raised petal pattern that caught the light. Look for pieces where the red remains vivid and the surface is free of crazing.

3. Ivory Petal (or “Parchment White”)

The most elegant and most fragile of the three. Ivory Petal is not pure white but a warm, slightly creamy off-white that resembles aged parchment or natural horn. This colour was achieved by leaving the cellulose acetate unpigmented except for a tiny amount of titanium dioxide to give opacity. Over time, Ivory Petal pieces can yellow further or become brittle. They were often paired with gold-toned metal accents in the form of tiny brass leaves or wire stems. Because the white was so popular for bridal and formal wear, many pieces were worn only once, so surviving examples in mint condition are highly sought after.

Dating and Identifying the Series

The Chrysanthemum Colours 3 series was produced by at least two British companies in the 1950s: one based in Birmingham and another in London’s Hatton Garden district. The Birmingham maker used a small impressed mark “B’ham” on the back of the comb, while the London maker stamped a tiny chrysanthemum logo. The series typically included a 4-inch hair comb, a small side clip, and a matching barrette. The three colours were sold as a set or individually. If you encounter a piece with a colour that does not match one of these three—say, a mint green or lavender—it belongs to a different series, possibly the later “Buttercups Midi Colors” or “Catarina” lines.

For a deeper understanding of how colour series were developed in Victorian and Edwardian hair combs, you might enjoy our guide on The Colour of Victorian Hair Combs: A Guide to Bertha Shades and Care. The Bertha series shares a similar three-colour approach, though in tortoiseshell and jet rather than the translucent floral palette.

Styling with Modern Wardrobes

The beauty of the Chrysanthemum Colours 3 lies in their versatility. Golden Amber warms up a cool-toned outfit—try it with a slate-grey wool blazer or a cream silk blouse. Crimson Chrysanthemum adds a bold accent to a simple black dress or a navy trench coat. Ivory Petal is perfect for summer linens or a white lace top; it reads as understated vintage rather than costumey. Because these pieces are small (the comb is about 4 inches wide), they work well as a single statement at the nape of the neck or as a pair of side clips holding back a half-updo. Avoid using them in very thick or heavy hair, as the original acetate can be brittle; they are best suited for fine to medium hair or as decorative accents on a bun.

Care and Preservation

Cellulose acetate is sensitive to heat, humidity, and UV light. Never leave a Chrysanthemum Colours 3 piece in direct sunlight or near a radiator. Clean gently with a soft, dry cloth; if necessary, use a barely damp cotton bud to remove dust from crevices, then dry immediately. Do not use alcohol, acetone, or any solvent—these will dissolve the surface. Store each piece separately in a soft pouch or a compartmentalised box to prevent scratches. If you notice a vinegar-like smell, that is a sign of “cellulose acetate degradation” (sometimes called “vinegar syndrome”). Isolate the affected piece from other accessories and consult a conservator. For more detailed preservation advice, our article The Asta Flower Hair Clip Colour Guide: Dating, Styling, and Collecting covers similar care issues for floral-themed clips.

Where to Look for Chrysanthemum Colours 3

These pieces turn up at British vintage fairs, estate sales, and online marketplaces. Because they are small and often overlooked, they can be reasonably priced—typically £15–£40 depending on colour and condition. Crimson Chrysanthemum commands the highest price due to its rarity. When buying online, always ask for a photo of the back to check for maker’s marks and for a close-up of the colour in natural light. Be wary of pieces that look too uniform or have a plastic-y shine; those are likely modern reproductions. Genuine vintage will have slight variations in colour depth and a soft, satin-like finish from decades of gentle wear.

The Chrysanthemum Colours 3 series is a delightful entry point for collectors who appreciate British mid-century design. The three hues—Golden Amber, Crimson Chrysanthemum, and Ivory Petal—each tell a story of material science and fashion taste. Whether you are building a curated collection or simply looking for one special piece to wear, keep an eye out for that subtle chrysanthemum pattern and those three distinctive colours. They are small, but they carry a century of craft.