Chequered Hair Claws: A Vintage British Hair Accessory Guide
Chequered hair claws are easy to mistake for a 1990s novelty, but the pattern has a much longer life in British dress. The word chequered simply means a surface divided into squares of alternating colour, and in hair accessories it usually appears as a woven tartan, a neat gingham, or an open windowpane grid. On a claw clip, those squares sit on a curved, spring-loaded shell, so the pattern has to be cut and folded around a three-dimensional form. That small technical detail is why a good vintage chequered claw feels different from a modern printed one.
What Counts as a Chequered Hair Claw?
At its simplest, a hair claw is a hinged clip with interlocking teeth that gathers hair at the nape or crown. A chequered version uses a pattern of intersecting stripes. In British vintage shops, you will find four main families:
- Tartan claws: dense, woven checks in red, green, or blue, often inspired by clan patterns but rarely an exact regimental tartan.
- Gingham claws: crisp two-colour checks, usually black-and-white or blue-and-white, with a clear tablecloth rhythm.
- Windowpane claws: a large, widely spaced grid over a solid background, sometimes in tortoiseshell or amber.
- Houndstooth claws: a broken check with jagged two-tone blocks, collected alongside true checks even though it is technically a weave, not a grid.
Not every check is the same. A true check is made by crossing horizontal and vertical stripes; tartan is a check, gingham is a check, and a windowpane is a check. A polka dot is not. The distinction matters when you are trying to date a claw, because the 1990s produced many printed patterns that merely imitated the structure of a weave.
Patterns to Know
The table below summarises the patterns you will meet on vintage hair claws. The dates are a rough guide rather than a hard rule, because many designs were remade through the 2000s.
| Pattern | What it looks like | Typical vintage era |
|---|---|---|
| Tartan | Dense crossed stripes, often red or green | 1980s–1990s |
| Gingham | Small, even two-colour checks | Late 1980s–early 1990s |
| Windowpane | Large open grid over a solid background | 1990s |
| Houndstooth | Broken check with pointed blocks | 1990s |
Materials and How the Check Gets There
Most vintage claws are made from cellulose acetate or ABS resin. Cellulose acetate has a warm, slightly woody feel and can develop a soft patina over decades. ABS resin is lighter, glossier, and more common on high-street pieces from the 1990s. The spring inside is usually a curved steel strip, and the hinge is either a metal pin or a moulded plastic catch.
The check can be produced in three ways:
- Moulded-in pattern: the coloured stripes are part of the plastic itself. This is rare and usually found on tortoiseshell-effect claws.
- Laminated pattern: a printed film is sealed under a clear layer. This is the mark of a well-made 1990s claw, because the check stays crisp even after heavy use.
- Surface-printed pattern: the design sits directly on the shell and wears first at the teeth and hinge. Many later reproductions use this method.
Cellulose acetate has been used for combs and hair accessories since the 1920s because it can be heated, shaped, and buffed to a deep gloss. ABS resin, by contrast, is a cheaper injection-moulded plastic that allows for sharper teeth and thinner shells. On a chequered claw, the material affects how the pattern ages: acetate tends to warm and yellow slightly, while ABS stays cool and bright.
Cult Shapes of the 1980s and 1990s
The shape matters as much as the pattern. In the late 1980s, the classic claw was a large, rounded shell with long teeth, designed to hold a full twist at the nape. By the mid-1990s, smaller claws appeared for side sections and half-up styles. The banana claw, a long curved clip with a continuous hinge, became a favourite for sleek half-up looks. A chequered pattern on a banana claw is especially collectable because the grid has to follow the curve, which makes the clipping more complex. Mini chequered claws were often sold in pairs and are still useful for pinning back fringe.
A Short History of the Claw in Britain
Claw clips became a high-street staple in Britain in the late 1980s, sold as jaw clips or crocodile clips before the American term claw clip took over. High-street chains and market stalls sold them in multiples, often in plastic tubs by the till. By 1992, checks were everywhere in fashion, from grunge flannel shirts to preppy schoolgirl styling. A black-and-white gingham claw was an easy way to nod to both trends without buying a whole new wardrobe. The pattern also appeared on scrunchies, headbands, and handbags, but the claw was the piece that lasted, because it actually held thick hair in place.
Dating and Identifying Vintage Chequered Claws
Look at the hinge and the teeth first. A claw from the 1980s tends to have a thicker shell and a metal pin running through the hinge. A 1990s claw often has a sleeker plastic hinge with a metal spring hidden inside. Vintage teeth are smooth and rounded; modern claws often have sharper teeth for grip. On the inside of the shell you may find a small stamp: Made in Hong Kong, Made in Taiwan, or a brand mark. That is not a flaw; it is a useful clue.
Colour is just as important as pattern. The same black-and-white gingham can read as 1950s kitchenware or 1990s grunge depending on the background tint. If you enjoy that kind of colour detective work, the blog’s guide to the secret language of Bertha hair accessory colours shows how much a single shade can tell you about a piece’s era.
On a laminated claw, the pattern should line up across the two halves of the shell. If it does not, the clip may have been assembled from mismatched halves or the film was applied carelessly. On a moulded claw, the check is continuous at the hinge. On a surface-printed claw, you can sometimes feel the print with a fingernail, especially near the teeth.
Caring for a Chequered Claw
Chequered claws need gentler care than their sturdy look suggests. Clean the teeth with a cotton bud dipped in warm water and a drop of mild soap, then dry immediately. Do not soak the clip, and never use acetone or nail polish remover; it will dissolve acetate and cloud a laminated surface. Store claws flat in a drawer or hung by the hinge, away from radiators and direct sunlight. Heat is the real enemy: it can warp the shell and make the check pattern ripple.
Everyday hairspray and styling mist can leave a sticky film on the shell, so wipe the outside with a dry microfibre cloth after wearing and save a deeper clean for once a month. If a spring feels loose, resist the urge to bend the shell. Acetate cracks easily. A jeweller who repairs spectacles can often replace a small spring. For surface-printed claws, avoid rubbing the design; scratches cannot be polished away without removing the print.
Wearing a Chequered Claw Now
The easiest way to wear a chequered claw is to treat it as tailoring. A large tartan claw looks natural with a charcoal coat, a white shirt, and straight-leg jeans. A small gingham claw can pin back a side section with a slip dress. A windowpane claw adds structure to a fine knit. The check pattern echoes suiting fabrics, so it does most of the styling work for you; keep the rest of the outfit plain.
For a formal occasion, choose a black-and-white houndstooth claw and wear it low at the nape. For a casual day, a blue gingham claw worn high on the crown feels lighter and more playful. Avoid pairing a tartan claw with tartan clothing unless you are deliberately matching; the effect can be overwhelming. Instead, let the claw be the only checked item in the outfit.
Collecting Notes
Chequered claws are still undervalued compared with flower-shaped and decorated clips. Charity shops and vintage fairs regularly sell them for a few pounds. Before buying, open and close the claw several times, check that the teeth meet evenly, and look at the pattern near the hinge: if the print is scratched there, it has been worn often. Online, use both chequered and check in your search, because sellers are inconsistent. Some even misspell it as chequerd. A good starting piece is a black-and-white gingham claw from the early 1990s: it has a crisp pattern, a comfortable spring, and it will slip into a modern wardrobe without announcing itself. Once you know how the check is made, you will never mistake a surface-printed reproduction for a laminated original.