How to Match Vintage Hair Accessories with 1970s Maxi Dresses
The maxi dress of the early 1970s was a category, not a single silhouette. It ranged from floral cotton lawns worn with flat sandals in Cornwall to bias-cut jersey columns that moved like liquid under a disco light. What united them was a hem that grazed the floor and a hair story that had to be solved. A short bob could get lost above all that fabric; a towering beehive belonged to the previous decade. The answer was often an accessory that echoed the dress’s mood — a wide headband, a smooth comb, a row of barrettes.
For a collector of vintage hair accessories, the 70s maxi is a perfect partner because it leaves the hair visible. The dress covers the body; the face and hair become the focus. But not every accessory suits every maxi. The fabric, print, neckline and occasion all change the choice.
The 1970s Silhouette and the Hair Line
In Britain, the maxi dress arrived at the end of the 1960s as a longer alternative to the miniskirt. By the early 1970s it was everywhere: Laura Ashley printed cotton versions, Biba-inspired velvet columns, high-street jersey dresses in rust, plum and moss. The line was long, and the hair had to follow. A high, stiff hairstyle would break the vertical; a loose, low shape kept it.
This is why the hair accessory mattered. A wide headband flattened the crown and added width at the forehead, which balanced the long hem. Combs placed low at the nape kept hair off the neck without raising the silhouette. Barrettes worked well on centre-parted hair, because they repeated the dress’s symmetry.
The Three Maxi Dress Personalities
Most 1970s maxis fall into three broad personalities, and each one has a natural hair-accessory language.
- Prairie and floral maxis. High necks, smocked bodices, tiny buttons and long sleeves. These read as romantic and rural. They ask for a wide woven or ribbon headband, a silk scarf tied over the crown, or small enamel barrettes placed along a centre parting.
- Jersey and slip maxis. Bias-cut, cowl-necked, often in polyester jersey that drapes like silk without the weight. These are sleek and urban. They work with a low chignon held by a tortoiseshell comb, a single metal barrette, or a clean halo headband.
- Evening and velvet maxis. Crushed velvet, deep colours, bare shoulders or a halter neck. These are dramatic. A jeweled hair comb, a pair of decorative pins, or a velvet-covered headband can match the formality without covering the dress’s neckline.
Matching the Accessory to the Fabric
The weight of the dress should guide the weight of the accessory. A light cotton lawn can feel overwhelmed by a heavy metal comb; a thick velvet maxi can make a flimsy plastic barrette disappear.
| Dress fabric | Hair accessory that suits it | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton lawn, voile, floral print | Woven headband, silk ribbon, light enamel barrettes | Keeps the romantic, airy mood |
| Polyester jersey, rayon, silk | Tortoiseshell comb, metal snap-lock barrette, low pony holder | Adds a sleek line without bulk |
| Velvet, brocade, heavy crepe | Jeweled comb, decorative pin, velvet-covered headband | Matches the weight and evening formality |
There is also the question of print. A busy floral maxi already has a lot going on; a plain headband in a colour pulled from the print is safer than a second pattern. A plain jersey maxi, by contrast, can take a more decorative accessory — a beaded headband, a gilt comb, a cluster of stones.
If you are drawn to beaded headbands, our collector’s guide to semi-precious stone beads in vintage hair accessories explains how to identify the difference between glass, plastic and actual stone beads. That knowledge is especially useful when a 1970s headband is sold simply as “vintage beads.”
What to Look for in a 1970s Hair Accessory
When buying vintage hair accessories to wear with a maxi, focus on condition and construction.
- Spring-tooth combs have a metal spring running across the teeth. They grip well and were common in the 1970s. Check that the spring is not rusted and that the teeth are not cracked.
- Snap-lock barrettes close with a hinged metal clasp. They are easy to open and close, but the hinge can loosen. Hold the barrette closed and give it a gentle shake; it should stay shut.
- Halo headbands are wire circles covered in fabric or beads. They were worn over the forehead or pushed back. Look for fraying on the fabric and loose beads before you buy.
- Tortoiseshell-effect acetate is warm brown and slightly translucent. It was used for combs and clips throughout the 1970s. Avoid pieces that are warped or have rough edges.
How to Wear a Vintage Maxi with Modern Clothes
A 1970s maxi dress does not need a full period outfit. In fact, it looks more alive when mixed with modern pieces. A long floral maxi under a cropped denim jacket, with flat leather sandals and a simple woven headband, reads as contemporary. A velvet maxi with a tailored blazer and a tortoiseshell comb is evening wear that does not shout vintage. The hair accessory becomes the bridge between decades.
This is the quiet logic of a well-edited wardrobe. When you buy a second-hand 1970s dress and pair it with a second-hand 1970s comb, you are keeping two objects in use without asking for new production. You are also accepting the dress’s quirks — the hem that needs a slip, the zip that sticks, the print that does not match anything else in your wardrobe. Those quirks are part of the pleasure.
Careful Wearing and Gentle Care
Vintage maxi dresses and vintage hair accessories both need a little patience.
Before wearing, check the accessory against the fabric. A smooth-backed comb is safe with jersey; a metal barrette with sharp edges can snag velvet or leave a pull in cotton. If the dress has a narrow neckline, put it on first, then insert the accessory. If the accessory has long teeth and the dress is already on your body, angle the teeth downward and slide the comb in slowly, so it does not catch the fabric.
After wearing, wipe combs and barrettes with a barely damp cloth and dry them immediately. Do not soak cellulose acetate, and do not leave tortoiseshell-effect pieces near a radiator or in direct sunlight; they can warp. Store them in a box with a soft lining, ideally away from heavy metal pieces that could scratch the surface.
Finding the Right Pieces
In the UK, 1970s hair accessories turn up in charity shops, car boot sales, vintage fairs and online marketplaces. Look for labels that say “Made in England” or “British Made” on combs and barrettes; many were produced by small haberdashery suppliers and department stores. The best way to build a wardrobe of these pieces is to buy slowly and to handle them before buying whenever possible.
When buying online, ask for close-up photographs of the spring, hinge and teeth, and ask whether the piece has been repaired or re-glued. At fairs, hold the accessory up to the light and look for hairline cracks in acetate or missing stones. A well-made 1970s barrette or comb should feel solid in the hand, not brittle.
Next time a 1970s maxi catches your eye, hold the fabric up to the light and decide which of the three personalities it has: prairie, jersey or evening. Then look for the hair accessory that belongs to it. A floral cotton maxi wants a woven headband; a bias-cut jersey wants a tortoiseshell comb; a crushed velvet column wants something with a little sparkle. That pairing is where the outfit begins.