Building a Vintage Hair Claw Collection: Eras, Materials, and Styling

The hair claw—often dismissed as a mere 1980s relic—deserves a place in any serious vintage accessory collection. Unlike the delicate Edwardian comb or the structured mid-century barrette, the claw clip offers a unique blend of sculptural form and mechanical ingenuity. Its spring-loaded jaw, designed to grip a thick section of hair without pins, represents a quiet revolution in practical adornment. For the British collector, the hair claw tells a story of post-war material experimentation, from early celluloid to high-impact acetate, and of shifting silhouettes that mirrored the changing lengths and volumes of women’s hair.

While many vintage enthusiasts focus on the more obvious treasures—the silver filigree comb, the rhinestone slide—the claw clip rewards those who look closer. Its collecting potential spans the 1920s spring comb, the 1950s ‘banana’ clip, the 1970s tortoiseshell jaw, and the exuberant 1980s plastic claws that dominated high street fashion. Each era left its mark in colour, texture, and mechanism. Understanding these nuances transforms a casual find into a curated piece of design history.

A Brief History of the Spring-Loaded Clip

The precursor to the modern hair claw is the French spring comb, patented in the 19th century. These early versions used a metal spring to clamp the comb’s teeth together, securing a chignon or twist. By the 1920s, manufacturers in Britain and France were experimenting with celluloid and early plastics to create lighter, more decorative versions. The true ‘claw’ shape—with curved, interlocking teeth that snap closed—emerged in the 1950s, often marketed as the ‘jaw clip’ or ‘banana clip’ because of its elongated, curved form.

The 1980s brought an explosion of colour and scale. Big hair demanded big clips, and brands like Goody, Riviera, and France Luxe produced oversized claws in bright tortoiseshell, mottled pastels, and bold geometric patterns. These clips were often stamped with maker marks on the inside of the spring—a detail that serious collectors seek out. The 1990s saw a return to smaller, subtler designs, but the vintage market now prizes the exuberant 1980s pieces most of all.

Materials and Makers

Collecting hair claws by material is a fascinating sub-specialty. The earliest examples are often made of celluloid—a semi-synthetic material that can develop a characteristic camphor smell and delicate crazing. Celluloid claws from the 1920s and 1930s are rare, but they survive in muted tortoiseshell and dark amber tones. Bakelite claws, though less common than Bakelite bangles, do exist; they are heavier, have a distinctive ‘hot’ smell when rubbed, and often display a rich maroon or green hue.

From the 1950s onward, cellulose acetate became the dominant material. It is lighter than Bakelite, can be moulded into intricate shapes, and takes dye beautifully. British makers such as L. & C. Hardtmuth (later known as Koh-I-Noor) and J. & J. Cash produced acetate claws with a translucent quality that catches the light. Later, in the 1970s and 1980s, styrene and ABS plastic allowed for mass production of brightly coloured, durable claws. Look for clips with a smooth, glossy finish and a spring that still holds tension—many vintage claws have lost their snap.

Metal claws, though less common, are worth seeking out. Sterling silver and German silver (nickel silver) claw combs were made for evening wear, often set with rhinestones or engraved with floral motifs. These pieces are heavier and more formal, but they can be worn with modern updos for a striking contrast.

Cult Silhouettes of the 20th Century

Certain shapes have become iconic among collectors. The banana clip—a long, curved claw that holds a ponytail or French twist—was a staple of the 1950s and returned in the 1980s. The octopus claw, with multiple prongs that spread like tentacles, was designed for thick hair and is highly sought after in rare colours like coral or lavender. The French twist comb, which resembles a claw but lacks a spring, relies on a curved shape and teeth to grip the hair; these are often found in vintage costume jewellery sets.

For the British collector, the ‘snap’ clip—a small claw with a single hinge—offers a more understated option. These were popular in the 1960s and 1970s, often sold in sets of two or three, and are ideal for securing half-up styles. When building a collection, aim for a variety of silhouettes to show the evolution of the form.

How to Start Your Collection

Begin by identifying your preferred era. Do you gravitate toward the warm, organic tones of 1950s acetate, or the bold, playful colours of the 1980s? A focused collection—say, only tortoiseshell claws from 1950–1980—can be more satisfying than a random assortment. Visit charity shops, vintage fairs, and car boot sales in Britain; these are still the best sources for affordable, authentic pieces. Online marketplaces require careful scrutiny of photos and descriptions, especially for spring condition.

When examining a potential purchase, test the spring. A good vintage claw should open smoothly and close with a firm snap. If the spring feels loose or sticks, it may be beyond repair. Check for cracks, especially near the hinge, and for signs of discolouration from heat or sunlight. Celluloid claws can become brittle with age; handle them gently.

Checklist for the New Collector

• Spring tension: Open and close the clip several times. It should resist slightly and snap shut.
• Maker marks: Look inside the jaw or on the back for stamped names like “Goody,” “Riviera,” “France Luxe,” or “Made in England.”
• Material feel: Acetate feels warm and slightly flexible; Bakelite feels dense and hard; celluloid may smell faintly of camphor.
• Colour and pattern: Avoid pieces with heavy fading or uneven dye. Mottled tortoiseshell should have natural-looking swirls.
• Teeth alignment: All teeth should meet evenly when closed. Misaligned teeth can pull hair.

Styling Vintage Claws with a Modern Wardrobe

The beauty of the hair claw lies in its versatility. A single 1980s tortoiseshell claw can transform a simple low bun into a statement of effortless chic. Wear it with a crisp white blouse and tailored trousers for a look that nods to the past without feeling costume-like. For evening, a silver claw comb set with rhinestones adds a touch of vintage glamour to a sleek updo.

British weather often calls for hair that stays put, and a well-made claw is far more reliable than a flimsy modern plastic clip. Pair a large banana clip with a wool beret for autumn walks, or use a small snap clip to hold back a side section while leaving the rest loose—perfect for a rainy day when you want to keep hair off your face without a full updo.

If you are new to styling with claws, start with a simple twist: gather hair at the nape of the neck, twist it upward, and secure with a medium-sized claw. The clip should hold firmly without pulling. For thicker hair, look for clips with longer teeth and a wider jaw. The 1980s ‘octopus’ claws are especially good for this.

Caring for Your Collection

Vintage claws require gentle care. Clean them with a soft, damp cloth and mild soap; avoid soaking, as water can seep into the spring mechanism and cause rust. Dry thoroughly after cleaning. Store clips in a dry, cool place away from direct sunlight, which can fade colours and weaken plastics. If you have metal claws, keep them in a lined box or pouch to prevent scratching.

For plastic claws that have lost their shine, a tiny drop of mineral oil on a cotton bud can restore gloss—but test on an inconspicuous area first. Never use acetone or alcohol, as these can dissolve acetate and celluloid. If a spring breaks, a jeweller or watchmaker may be able to replace it, but many collectors prefer to leave the piece as a display item rather than risk further damage.

One final practical note: when wearing a vintage claw, avoid using hairspray or heat styling products directly on the clip. The chemicals can interact with the plastic over time, causing cloudiness or stickiness. Instead, style your hair first, then add the accessory.

Whether you are drawn to the jewel-toned claws of the 1980s or the understated elegance of a 1950s banana clip, building a collection of hair claws offers a tangible connection to the material culture of British fashion. Each piece carries the memory of a hairstyle, an era, and a woman who chose to adorn herself with a small, clever mechanism. The next time you pass a vintage stall, look for that telltale curve of a claw—and give it a gentle snap.