A February 2017 Discovery: The Enduring Geometry of 1920s Hair Pins

On this chilly February morning, I found myself at the Portobello Road Market, sifting through a velvet-lined tray of hair pins. The seller, a retired jeweller with a practised eye, watched as I turned over a small silver-plated set. Each pin bore a crisp Art Deco diamond motif, the enamel still holding a faint cerulean blue. “1920s,” he said, “and the enamel is original – most of them have lost it by now.” I bought the complete set of six, and the encounter reminded me why the humble hair pin deserves more than a passing glance.

The hair pin of the 1920s was not merely functional; it was a statement of modernity. As women cropped their hair into bobs and finger waves, the long decorative pin evolved into a compact, geometric accessory that anchored the new silhouette. The pins I found that day are stamped from a silver-alloy blank, then hand-painted with enamel in a closed-cell technique. The geometric pattern – a series of interlocking triangles – echoes the contemporary fascination with Cubism and the machine age. The story of these pins is part of a larger narrative about how vintage hair accessories shaped an industry, a topic I explore in my business of fashion series.

The Making of a Geometric Icon

Manufacturers in Birmingham and Sheffield led the production of such pins in the interwar period. The process began with a metal blank, cut into the desired shape – often a long, tapering oval with a pointed end. A die-stamping press impressed the geometric pattern, then the recessed areas were filled with vitreous enamel, fired at high temperature, and polished flat. The result was a smooth, durable surface that could withstand daily use without losing its lustre. Unlike the earlier Edwardian hair ornaments that relied on filigree and gemstones, these pins celebrated simplicity and precision.

Collectors today look for three key indicators of authenticity:

• Enamel integrity: Original enamel sits flush with the metal; later reproductions often have a raised, bubbled surface.
• Pin length: Authentic 1920s hair pins measure between 6 and 10 cm, designed to hold the short bob securely without protruding too far.
• Maker's mark: Look for a small stamp on the back, such as “Sterling” or “EPNS” (electro-plated nickel silver) – many British manufacturers marked their work.

How to Style a Vintage Geometric Pin Today

These pins are surprisingly versatile. For a modern outfit, I often sweep the hair into a low side chignon and insert three pins in a descending line – the geometric pattern becomes a deliberate decorative accent. Alternatively, use a single pin to secure a deep side part, letting the enamel catch the light against dark hair. The key is restraint: the pin’s own geometry provides all the ornamentation needed, so keep other accessories minimal. A plain navy blazer and a crisp white shirt allow the blue enamel to speak.

Caring for Enamel and Silver

Vintage enamel is more fragile than modern ceramic coatings. Avoid immersing pins in water; instead, wipe them with a dry, lint-free cloth after wearing. If the silver has tarnished, use a specialised silver polishing cloth – never a liquid dip, which can degrade the enamel. Store each pin individually in a soft pouch or a compartmentalised box. I place a small sachet of silica gel in the box to control humidity, particularly in London’s damp climate.

A Note on the Market Today

Genuine 1920s enamel hair pins have become increasingly sought-after. At the smaller antiques fairs in Kent and Sussex, a set of six in good condition might sell for £40–£80, while rare signed pieces by makers such as W. H. Haseler or the Birmingham Guild of Handicraft can command over £200. The set I bought that February morning was priced at £55 – the enamel was intact, the silver had a gentle patina, and each pin still held its tension. It was a fair price for a century-old object that could still be worn.

So, when you next come across a similar set, resist the urge to toss them in a drawer. Instead, line that same box with acid-free tissue paper and store them flat, away from direct light. It is the quietest form of preservation, and one that keeps the geometry of the 1920s intact for another century.