How to Identify Genuine Series 2 Cone Hair Clips (1980s Vintage)

When the first cone hair clips appeared in British boutiques in the late 1970s, their tapered, almost architectural silhouette was a quiet rebellion against the soft, floral hair accessories that had dominated the previous decade. By the mid‑1980s, however, the original line had evolved. The second series — often called simply “Series 2” among collectors — introduced a subtly reshaped profile, new colourways, and a noticeably lighter spring mechanism. Hunting for a pair at a vintage fair or scrolling through a late‑night online auction? Knowing the differences between the first and second generation can save you both money and disappointment.

The Evolution of the Cone Shape

The biggest change in Series 2 is the shank of the clip itself. Earlier cones were straight‑sided from the hinge to the tip, but the second series curves inward ever so slightly before flaring again at the mouth. This gentle waist gives the clip a more secure grip on fine or silky hair — British makers added this after customers complained about slipping. The tips are also marginally more rounded, reducing the risk of snagging, and the overall length shrank by about 3 mm, settling at 6.5 cm for the standard size. Hold a Series 1 and a Series 2 side by side, and the difference is immediately apparent: the newer one feels more ergonomic, less like a fashion statement and more like a practical tool that happens to be beautiful.

Materials and Colourways

Series 2 clips are almost exclusively made from cellulose acetate, a plant‑based plastic prized for its ability to take deep, translucent colours. The palette expanded from the original four colours (tortoiseshell, black, ivory, and maroon) to include a spectrum of eight: sherbet lemon, coral pink, moss green, dove grey, midnight blue, buttercup yellow, clear crystal, and a mottled “pearlised” white. Many of these colours were produced in small batches, so certain shades — especially the coral pink and moss green — are now scarce. The metal spring inside is a brass‑alloy hinge, often stamped with a tiny maker’s mark on the interior face. Later in the series, some clips received a “Made in England” engraving, but this is not universal.

How to Spot a Genuine Series 2 Clip

With the rise of reproduction clips from the 1990s, authenticity is a common concern. Here are the key identifiers to check before you commit:

• Hinge shape: Genuine Series 2 hinges have a flat, rectangular pin cover, not a rounded one. Reproductions often use a simple cylindrical pin.
• Weight: The acetate in Series 2 is denser than later copies. A single clip should feel substantial — roughly 12 grams — not flimsy.
• Colour depth: Hold the clip up to natural light. Authentic colours show a slight translucency, especially at the thinnest part of the cone. Solid, opaque plastic is a red flag.
• Maker’s stamp: Look for a tiny alphanumeric code (e.g., “A2” or “C4”) on the inside of the hinge. These codes were used to track production batches and are absent on most fakes.
• Wear pattern: A genuine vintage clip will have tiny scuffs on the tips and around the hinge from normal use. A pristine, blemish‑free clip from a claimed “vintage” source should be treated with suspicion.

Styling with a Modern Wardrobe

The beauty of the Series 2 cone clip is its neutrality. The restrained geometry lets it sit comfortably alongside a minimal cashmere jumper or a structured blazer without shouting “vintage costume.” One of my favourite combinations is a pair of moss‑green clips used to sweep a low side‑part into a gentle twist — the colour echoes the olive tones of a classic trench coat. For evening, the clear crystal clips catch the light like small glass sculptures; I wear them with a black silk slip dress and barely any other jewellery. The key is to let the clip’s colour be the accent. If you choose a bold shade like coral or buttercup, keep the rest of your accessories quiet — a single pair of small gold hoops, a plain leather belt.

Care and Storage

Cellulose acetate is sensitive to heat and humidity. Never leave a cone clip in a car glovebox or near a radiator, as the plastic can warp or develop a white bloom called “vinegar syndrome.” Instead, store them flat in a fabric‑lined box, away from direct sunlight. If a clip becomes stiff, a tiny drop of sewing‑machine oil on the hinge pin (applied with a toothpick) will usually restore smooth movement. Avoid using WD‑40, as its solvents can attack the acetate. To clean the surface, wipe gently with a barely damp cloth and dry immediately. Never soak them.

One final practical note: when you buy a second‑hand pair, always check the spring tension by opening and closing the clip at least three times before purchasing. A weak spring can be re‑tensioned by a jeweller, but it is far easier to start with a clip that closes with a firm, audible click. That satisfying sound is the hallmark of a well‑preserved Series 2 — and a small reminder of the careful engineering that went into these unassuming objects.