Chloe Tortoiseshell Hair Barrette: A Collector’s Guide

Ask a vintage hair-accessory dealer which tortoiseshell piece sells fastest at a British flea market, and the answer is often the humble barrette. The Chloe—a smooth, amber-mottled slide with a metal spring hinge—turns up in boxes of old haberdashery with surprising regularity, yet it rarely gets the attention it deserves. Collectors know the name, but the story behind it is richer than a simple “tortoiseshell barrette” label suggests.

What is the Chloe tortoiseshell barrette?

The Chloe is not a single rigid design but a family of tortoiseshell-look barrettes made in Britain from the late 1950s through the 1970s. Most examples are between 5 and 7 cm long, with softly rounded corners and a gentle curve that follows the shape of the head. The colour is what makes them instantly recognisable: warm amber and dark tobacco brown swirling into each other, sometimes with a translucent golden edge.

In British haberdashery terminology, the Chloe is usually a barrette with a spring-hinged clasp, although very similar pieces with a single long prong also carry the name. Some Chloes have a small engraved mark on the inside of the metal hinge; others are unmarked. The name appears on pieces from several small manufacturers, so it is best treated as a style name rather than a single factory's output. The hair-accessory name has no connection to the Paris fashion house Chloé; it was simply a popular British choice long before it became a label shorthand.

Real shell and honest imitations

Genuine hawksbill tortoiseshell was the original material for these barrettes. It has a depth and lustre that plastic substitutes struggle to match. Since the international trade in real shell was banned in the 1970s, most Chloes found today are made from cellulose acetate, a material that was already widely used in British accessory factories. The acetate version is lighter, less brittle and easier to produce in consistent colours. That does not make it a copy: it is a legitimate material in its own right, and many of the most collectable Chloes are acetate.

The tortoiseshell effect itself has a longer history. In the 1920s and 1930s, real shell was used for expensive dresser sets and hair combs. By the 1960s, the same visual language was available in affordable acetate, which allowed a much wider audience to wear the look. The Chloe belongs to this quiet democratisation of a formerly luxurious material.

How the Chloe was made

Tortoiseshell-look acetate was produced by heating sheets of plastic and pressing them into curved shapes. The mottling was created by combining different coloured granules before the sheet was formed. After shaping, each barrette was trimmed, sanded and polished by hand. The metal hinge was often made from brass or nickel-plated steel, and the small screws allowed the spring to be tightened or replaced. This is why so many Chloes have survived: they were designed to be repaired, not thrown away.

The best vintage examples have a smooth, almost warm feel to the touch. Hold one up to the light and you will see subtle variations in the pattern rather than a flat, printed swirl. That irregularity is the signature of a well-made piece.

The Chloe colour palette

Not all tortoiseshell is the same. The Chloe's palette ranges from light honey to dark rum, with some pieces showing a streaky “tiger's eye” pattern and others a more even, smoky swirl. Collectors tend to prize barrettes with a clear golden edge and a deep brown core, because the contrast makes the barrette read clearly from a distance. Pale examples are rarer but can look almost blonde in bright light; darker examples feel more formal. Neither is “better” — it simply depends on the tones in your wardrobe.

How to spot a vintage Chloe

If you are sorting through a box of vintage hair accessories, a few clues help you separate a 1960s Chloe from a recent high-street barrette.

• Look at the hinge: vintage pieces usually have a solid brass or steel spring hinge with visible screws; modern interpretations often use a concealed spring.
• Check the edge: hand-polished tortoiseshell-look acetate has a smooth, slightly rounded edge; moulded modern pieces often have a visible seam.
• Smell: real shell is almost odourless; old acetate may have a faint vinegar-like scent when warmed, which fades quickly.
• Weigh it in your hand: genuine shell feels denser than acetate, but if you are uncertain, treat it as shell until proven otherwise.

Why the Chloe became a British classic

During the 1960s, hair was big, structured and often backcombed. A barrette was not just a pretty extra; it was engineering for the bouffant. The Chloe's long, flat base and secure spring made it ideal for holding a French twist or a low ponytail. By the 1970s, the same shape appeared in high-street hair accessories, often in tortoiseshell tones that matched wooden jewellery and tan leather bags. Its popularity faded in the 1980s, but the silhouette never disappeared completely.

Collectors who enjoy tracing named vintage pieces often look at the Asta Flower Hair Clip, whose four colours turned a single shape into an icon in its own right. The Chloe belongs to the same world: a small, well-made object that carries the design language of its decade in a way that still feels modern.

What to inspect before you buy

Not every Chloe is worth taking home. Before you hand over money, give the barrette a quick check.

• Hinge: look for cracks or rust. Surface rust can be cleaned, but a cracked spring is much harder to replace.
• Clasp teeth: they should be straight and not bent. Bent teeth can snag hair and weaken the hold.
• Surface: hold the barrette up to the light. Genuine shell shows translucent, irregular edges; acetate is more uniform but can develop a slight cloudiness with age.
• Edge: run a finger along the rim. A well-made vintage piece should feel smooth, not sharp.

Styling a Chloe with a modern wardrobe

Tortoiseshell is one of the easiest vintage materials to wear today. The Chloe barrette adds a warm, grounding note to a grey wool coat, a cream silk blouse, or even a simple white t-shirt. For a modern interpretation, use it to pin a low side part or to secure a sleek half-up twist. It also works beautifully on shorter hair: slide it horizontally just above the nape to keep a bob out of the way while showing off the pattern.

For a formal event, place the Chloe at the back of a low chignon and add a pair of pearl studs. For a casual day, use it to hold back a curtain of side-swept hair. Because the pattern is busy, keep the rest of the outfit simple. The Chloe also works with other tortoiseshell accessories, but avoid wearing too many pieces at once.

Caring for your Chloe

Because most Chloes are at least fifty years old, they need a gentle hand. Clean the acetate or shell surface with a soft, slightly damp cloth and a drop of mild dish soap, then dry immediately. Never soak the barrette, and avoid alcohol, acetone and ultrasonic cleaners. The metal hinge should be kept dry; if it starts to stiffen, a tiny drop of sewing-machine oil on the screw can work wonders. Store the barrette flat in a padded box or wrapped in acid-free tissue, away from radiators and direct sunlight, which can fade the amber tones.

Old acetate can become brittle if it is kept in a hot loft or a damp bathroom. A bedroom drawer or a jewellery box is a better home. If the surface has light scratches, a specialist plastic polish can help, but test it on an inconspicuous spot first and do not use metal polish.

Where to look and what to pay

Chloe barrettes turn up in unexpected places: charity shops, house clearances, vintage fairs, and online auctions. Search for “tortoiseshell hair slide”, “vintage barrette”, or “Chloe hair clip”. In charity shops, look in the jewellery and accessories boxes rather than the hair-care aisle. At vintage fairs, ask dealers if they have a “bits box” under the table; that is often where the small hair accessories hide.

Prices vary enormously. A single barrette in good condition might cost £8 at a charity shop and £25 at a vintage fair; a pair with matching tortoiseshell combs can go for more. The key is to buy the piece, not the label. A slightly worn hinge is easier to fix than a cracked barrette, and a barrette with a missing screw can often be brought back to life with a jeweller's screwdriver.

A final practical note

Before you put your Chloe away for the season, check the hinge screw with a jeweller's screwdriver; a quarter turn is often enough to keep it secure. Then wear it with a simple white shirt and a pair of tailored trousers—the kind of outfit that lets sixty years of good design do the talking.