The Clemie Hair Claw: A Collector’s Guide to a 1990s Icon

When you hold a genuine Clemie hair claw from the early 1990s, the first thing you notice is the heft. Unlike the flimsy plastic claws that flooded the market later, a Clemie claw has a satisfying weight — the result of thick cellulose acetate, a brass spring pin, and a design philosophy that valued durability over disposability. For British collectors who hunt down vintage hair accessories at charity shops, car boot sales, and online auctions, the Clemie name is a quietly coveted one. Yet surprisingly little has been written about these claws, their manufacturing history, or how to distinguish the early pieces from later reproductions. This article aims to change that.

Origins of the Clemie Brand

Clemie was not a grand London fashion house, but a small factory-based operation that began in the late 1980s in the West Midlands, an area with a long tradition of plastics and jewellery manufacturing. The company specialised in hair claws, barrettes, and combs, and quickly earned a reputation for quality acetate work. Unlike many competitors who used injection-moulded polystyrene, Clemie favoured cellulose acetate — a material that could be hand-polished and would develop a warm patina over decades. The brand's peak production ran from roughly 1989 to 1996, after which cheaper imports from East Asia made domestic manufacturing unviable. Today, surviving Clemie claws are not rare, but they are increasingly sought after by those who appreciate the difference between a mass-market clip and a thoughtfully crafted object.

Signature Design Features

Clemie claws are immediately recognisable by several hallmarks. First, the profile: they are slightly deeper than the average claw, with a gentle curve that cups the hair without pinching. The teeth are rounded and set wide enough to hold a substantial section of hair without snagging. Second, the spring mechanism is enclosed in a metal tube that runs the full length of the spine — a more robust construction than the open springs found on cheaper rivals. Third, the brand often used a small embossed logo on the inside of the claw: a capital C inside a circle, or sometimes the full word "Clemie" in a serif font. Not every piece carries this mark, but when present it is a strong indicator of authenticity.

Colour palettes are another defining trait. While black and tortoiseshell are common, Clemie also produced a range of semi-translucent shades — amber, smoky grey, deep burgundy, and a milky jade that collectors call "mint cloud." These colours are not uniform; the acetate was often swirled or marbled, meaning no two claws are exactly alike. For a deeper understanding of how such shades relate to Victorian hair comb traditions, the detailed guide to Bertha shades and care offers a fascinating parallel in material science and fading behaviour.

Materials and Construction

Cellulose acetate is the star material of the Clemie story. Unlike the brittle, shiny plastic of later decades, acetate has a soft, almost organic feel. It can be polished to a high gloss, but even then it retains a slight warmth — it never looks cold or cheap. The claws were cut from sheets of acetate stock, then heated and pressed into shape. The spring assembly was inserted by hand, and each claw was inspected for smooth movement and closure. This hand-finishing means that slight variations in tooth alignment or polish are normal and even desirable, as they indicate a piece that was made by people, not machines.

One common issue with ageing acetate is shrinkage or brittleness. Clemie claws that have been stored in dry attics or near radiators may develop tiny cracks along the spine. However, because the acetate is thick, many pieces survive in excellent condition. The brass springs can corrode over time — green oxidation around the hinge is a sign of moisture damage. If you buy a vintage Clemie claw that snaps shut too quickly or refuses to stay open, the spring likely needs replacing. A good jewellery repair shop can often swap out the spring for a modern stainless steel version, restoring function without compromising the claw's appearance.

How to Style a Clemie Claw Today

The beauty of the Clemie claw is that it works across eras. A large tortoiseshell claw can anchor a sleek low bun for a business meeting, while a smaller marbled cream claw can hold a half-up twist for a Saturday market trip. The deep curve of the claw means it holds thick hair securely — a boon for those with long or heavy hair who find modern claws too small. For a more romantic look, gather your hair into a loose side chignon and secure it with a Clemie claw placed horizontally. The subtle swirls in the colour will catch the light and add texture without looking overdone.

Pair the claw with a simple outfit — a cream linen shirt, dark jeans, and leather loafers — and let the accessory speak for itself. Because the Clemie claw is substantial, it works well as a day to evening transition piece. Keep your other jewellery minimal: small gold earrings or a thin metal bracelet. The claw is already a statement.

Care and Preservation

Like any vintage cellulose acetate piece, Clemie claws require gentle handling. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, which can cause fading or warping. Store them in a soft cloth pouch or a drawer lined with acid-free paper. Never use alcohol or acetone to clean them — these solvents will craze the surface. Instead, wipe the claw with a slightly damp microfibre cloth, then buff with a dry one. If the claw has lost its gloss, a drop of mineral oil on a soft cloth can restore a subtle shine; apply it sparingly to the outer surface only, and avoid the spring hinge. With proper care, a Clemie claw will outlast many modern hair accessories by decades.

Identifying Fakes and Reproductions

As interest in vintage Clemie claws grows, so does the number of reproductions — some honest homages, others deliberately misleading. The easiest test is the smell test: genuine acetate, when warmed by handling, has a faint vinegary or camphor-like odour; new injection-moulded plastic smells synthetic or neutral. Next, examine the hinge: reproductions often use a visible screw or a plastic pin, whereas original Clemie claws have a tubular metal rivet that spans the entire hinge. Finally, check the colour depth: original marbled patterns have a subtle translucency, while fakes often look flat and opaque. A genuine Clemie will also show slight polishing marks on the edges, a sign of the hand-finishing process.

Where to Find Them

Charity shops in affluent areas of London, the Home Counties, and the Midlands still turn up Clemie claws — look in the accessory basket, often mixed with modern clips. Online, search for "Clemie hair claw" or "vintage claw clip 1990s" on auction sites. Expect to pay £5–15 for a common colour in good condition, and up to £30–40 for a rare shade like burgundy or mint cloud. If you find a claw with the original cardboard tag still attatched, that is a true collector's piece: hold onto it.

One final practical note: if you buy a Clemie claw that is sticky or cloudy, do not throw it away. This is a condition called "acetate weeping" — the plasticisers have migrated to the surface. A gentle wash with lukewarm water and a tiny drop of dish soap, followed by a thorough drying and a light buff with a soft cloth, can often restore the claw to a usable state. Let it rest for a day before wearing it, and you may be surprised by how well it recovers.