The Checkered Hair Claw: A British Vintage Icon

When you spot a vintage hair claw in a bold checkerboard pattern—whether black-and-white houndstooth, red-and-green tartan, or a subtle gingham—you are holding a small piece of British design history. The checkered hair claw, often made from glossy cellulose acetate or early plastics, emerged as a playful yet practical accessory in mid-20th-century Britain. Unlike the purely decorative combs of the Victorian era, the claw clip offered grip and versatility, and the addition of a check pattern turned it into a statement of heritage style.

These clips were not merely functional; they carried the visual language of British textile traditions. The check pattern—be it the classic shepherd’s check, the Prince of Wales check, or the ubiquitous tartan—became a way to echo the tweeds and woollens of country attire in an everyday hair accessory. Today, a well-preserved checkered hair claw can elevate a modern outfit with a touch of nostalgic charm.

What Makes a Checkered Hair Claw “British Vintage”?

The checkered hair claw is distinct from other patterned hair accessories because of its direct link to British fabric heritage. In the 1950s and 1960s, British manufacturers such as R. H. Macy & Co. (though American, their UK counterparts) and smaller English haberdashery brands began producing hair claws using multi-colour acetate sheets. The check pattern was achieved by layering coloured strips of acetate before the clip was moulded, resulting in a durable, translucent finish that mimics woven cloth.

Key characteristics of an authentic British vintage checkered hair claw include:

• Material: Usually cellulose acetate or early injection-moulded polystyrene. The acetate versions have a warm, slightly flexible feel.
• Pattern: True check patterns are formed through the material itself, not painted or printed. The colours go all the way through, so they won’t wear off.
• Size: Vintage claw clips tend to be smaller than modern ones—typically 6–8 cm in length—designed for half-up styles or securing a French twist.
• Spring mechanism: A metal spring encased in a plastic hinge. On older pieces, the spring may be exposed or slightly corroded, adding to the patina.

One common mistake collectors make is confusing a printed check pattern with a true moulded check. Printed checks (often found on cheaper 1980s imports) fade or chip; the moulded version retains its pattern indefinitely. If you are hunting at car boot sales or vintage fairs in the UK, look for the subtle depth of colour that only layered acetate can provide.

A Brief History of the Check Pattern in Hair Accessories

The checkerboard motif entered British fashion accessories long before the hair claw. In the 1920s, Art Deco designers used black-and-white geometric patterns on handbags and hatpins. But it was the post-war years that truly cemented the check as a hair accessory staple. The 1947 “New Look” by Christian Dior popularised full skirts and neat hairstyles, and women needed clips that could hold a chignon or a side roll without slipping. Enter the spring-loaded hair claw, patented in the 1950s by French inventor Michel M. G. L. (though British versions quickly followed).

By the 1960s, British youth culture embraced mod style, which favoured bold patterns. The hair claw became a canvas for black-and-white houndstooth, red tartan, and even miniature gingham. These were not just functional—they were fashion statements. Young women in London’s Carnaby Street would pair a tartan hair claw with a mini-dress and white boots, creating a look that was both playful and polished.

The 1970s saw a resurgence of natural fibres and earthy tones, but the checkered hair claw remained popular, often in warm rust, mustard, and olive combinations. By the 1980s, the market was flooded with mass-produced plastic clips, but the quality of the earlier moulded acetate pieces remains unmatched.

How to Identify and Evaluate a Genuine Vintage Checkered Hair Claw

Whether you are a seasoned collector or a newcomer to vintage hair accessories, knowing how to assess a checkered hair claw is essential. Here are the factors I consider every time I handle a potential find:

Condition of the Spring

The spring is the heart of the clip. Open and close the claw several times. A smooth, firm action indicates the spring is still strong. If it feels loose or sticks, the clip may not hold hair well. Some collectors accept a weak spring and replace it, but original springs are preferable.

Pattern Alignment

On a well-made claw, the check pattern should align symmetrically across both halves of the clip. Mismatched patterns are a sign of cheaper manufacturing. In vintage pieces, slight misalignment can occur due to the moulding process, but it should be minor.

Material Integrity

Check for cracks, especially around the hinge area. Cellulose acetate can become brittle over time, especially if stored in direct sunlight. A small hairline crack might be stable, but a large crack will likely worsen. Avoid clips with missing chunks of material.

Colour Fastness

Rub the pattern gently with a damp cloth. If any colour transfers, the clip has been painted or printed—this is not a true vintage piece. Authentic moulded acetate will not bleed colour.

Styling a Checkered Hair Claw with a Modern Wardrobe

One of the joys of owning a vintage checkered hair claw is its versatility. Unlike many modern accessories, these clips have a subtlety that allows them to blend with contemporary outfits without looking costume-like. Here are three ways I wear mine:

• With a tailored blazer: A black-and-white houndstooth claw echoes the pattern of a classic blazer. Use it to hold a low ponytail or a side-swept half-up style. The effect is polished and professional.
• With a chunky knit jumper: A red tartan claw adds a pop of warmth to a cream or grey sweater. Wear it to pin back a fringe or secure a messy bun. The contrast feels cosy yet deliberate.
• With a silk slip dress: For evening, a small gingham claw in pastel tones can be an unexpected accent. Tuck it behind the ear to hold a sleek side part—it adds a touch of retro without overwhelming the dress.

When pairing a checkered claw with other vintage accessories, consider the principle of scale. If your claw is large and bold, keep other hair adornments minimal. A single claw can be the focal point. If you are layering with a vintage headband or a scarf, choose a claw in a complementary colour rather than a competing pattern.

Caring for Your Checkered Hair Claw

Vintage plastics require gentle handling. Here are my practical tips for keeping your checkered claw in excellent condition:

• Clean sparingly: Wipe with a soft, dry cloth after each wear. If the clip is sticky or greasy (from hair products), use a cotton bud barely dampened with warm water and mild soap. Dry immediately.
• Avoid alcohol and acetone: These solvents can dissolve or cloud the acetate. Never use nail polish remover or hand sanitiser near your clip.
• Store flat: Do not hang the claw by its hinge—this can stretch the spring over time. Keep it in a soft pouch or a lined drawer, away from direct sunlight.
• Protect from heat: Avoid leaving the clip in a hot car or near a radiator. Heat can warp the plastic.

If you inherit a claw with a dull finish, a tiny amount of mineral oil on a microfiber cloth can restore some lustre. Test on an inconspicuous area first.

Where to Look and What to Pay

In the UK, the best hunting grounds for vintage checkered hair claws are charity shops in affluent areas, house clearance sales, and specialist vintage accessories fairs. Online marketplaces like eBay and Etsy can yield good results if you search for “vintage acetate hair claw,” “tartan hair clip,” or “houndstooth claw clip.” Expect to pay between £8 and £25 for a genuine piece in good condition. Rare patterns or mint-condition claws from the 1950s can fetch up to £40.

Be wary of modern reproductions that mimic the pattern but use inferior materials. A truly vintage claw will have a slight yellowing or patina that gives it character. If you are unsure, ask the seller about the material and age. A reputable vintage dealer will usually know the difference between a 1960s acetate clip and a 1990s plastic copy.

For those who enjoy documenting their collection, consider keeping a record of each piece—its pattern, approximate decade, and where you found it. This not only adds to the pleasure of collecting but also helps future generations appreciate these small works of design. If you are just starting, our RSS Feeds for Vintage Hair Accessories: A Collector’s Guide can help you stay updated on new finds and restoration tips.

One final detail that often surprises new collectors: the checkered hair claw was not only a women’s accessory. In the 1970s, some men with longer hair used these clips to keep their locks off their faces during work or sports. The unisex appeal of the pattern—especially the classic black-and-white check—makes it a truly democratic piece of vintage fashion. Whether you wear it for a day at the office or a weekend flea market, a checkered hair claw carries a story of British style that is both personal and shared.