The Arizona Bow Barrette: Turquoise, Coral, and a Touch of British Wit

The Arizona Bow Barrette never shouts. Its charm lies in a quiet geometry — two symmetrical loops of enamel-coated metal meeting at a slim clasp, with a palette borrowed from a desert sunset rather than a ballroom. Turquoise, coral, and a whisper of sand gold: colours that would look at home in a Santa Fe courtyard, yet the barrette itself was made for the British market, a small paradox that is part of its appeal for collectors today.

The name "Arizona" came from Maison Archives, the London-based house known for producing witty, well-made hair accessories in the 1950s and 1960s. While many of their pieces took inspiration from European elegance — pearl combs, velvet crowns, delicate tortoiseshell clips — the Arizona bow looked westward. It was a deliberate nod to the American Southwest, a region that fascinated British fashion editors after the war, when travel pages were filled with photographs of Monument Valley and Navajo jewellery.

The Design: A Bow That Holds Its Own

At first glance, the Arizona is a simple bow barrette. But look closer. The bow is not flat; it is moulded with a gentle three-dimensional curve, so that light catches the enamel differently as you move your head. The two loops are not identical in size — the left loop is marginally wider than the right, a hand-finished quirk that tells you this was made before the era of perfect machine symmetry. The clasp is a sturdy alligator clip, the kind that grips firmly without pulling, with a small metal channel on the underside where the teeth fold in.

The enamel work is worth a close look. Maison Archives used a technique called cloisonné — thin metal wires soldered onto the base plate, creating small cells that are then filled with coloured enamel and fired. That's why the Arizona's colours are so vivid after sixty years; the glass-like enamel is fused to the metal, not painted on top. Turquoise is the dominant colour, with coral red accents along the edges and a cream-coloured centre where the knot of the bow would sit.

Materials and Craft: What to Look For

If you are hunting for an Arizona bow barrette at a flea market, a car boot sale, or an online auction, there are a few physical markers to check.

• Weight: The barrette has a reassuring weight. The base is brass, not aluminium, so it feels substantial in the palm.
• The clasp: Look for the Maison Archives stamp on the underside of the clip. It is usually a small, oval mark with the letters "MA" and the number "522" — the pattern number for the Arizona bow. Some early versions have no stamp at all, which makes them harder to authenticate but no less beautiful.
• The enamel surface: Run your finger across the bow. Genuine vintage enamel should feel smooth, with no brushstrokes. If you feel ridges or see tiny bubbles, the enamel may have been applied cold rather than fired — a sign of a later, less careful manufacturing process.
• The edges: The metal rim around the bow should be visible, slightly raised, and free of rust. Rust and dirt on the rim can usually be cleaned gently, but deep corrosion that has crept under the enamel is irreversible.

The Maison Archives Story

Maison Archives was not a large house, and that is precisely why its pieces are so sought after. Operating from a small workshop in London's Soho between the late 1940s and the early 1970s, the company produced hair accessories in limited runs. The Arizona bow appears to have been made for only two or three seasons, probably around 1959–1961. It was sold through independent department stores and boutique hairdressers, rather than the big chain retailers, which is why so few survive.

The house was also known for its sense of humour. While the Arizona bow was a serious piece of craftsmanship, other Maison Archives designs were playful — the Kitty K Clip, for instance, featured a cat silhouette and became a cult favourite among collectors. The Arizona was the more sophisticated sibling: it could be worn to a wedding or a job interview, yet it never felt stuffy.

A Short History of the Bow in British Hair

The bow has a long life in British hair. In the Victorian era, girls wore wide silk ribbons tied into bows at the back of the head, a style that carried well into the Edwardian years. By the 1920s, the bow had migrated to the side of the head, often pinned above the ear, and in the 1940s it became a practical tool: with fabric rationing in effect, women made bows from offcuts of ribbon and attached them to simple metal grips.

The 1950s and 1960s transformed the bow from a ribbon tied in the hair into a rigid, manufactured accessory. Designers began casting bows in metal, coating them in enamel, and mounting them on clips. The Arizona bow belongs to this precise moment. It is not a ribbon bow; it is a sculptural object, closer in spirit to a piece of jewellery than to a hair tie. That is what makes it feel modern even now.

Authenticity Markers of the Arizona Bow

Before paying vintage prices, a careful collector will want to confirm a few details. The Arizona bow has several distinctive markers that set it apart from later, mass-produced bow clips.

1. The clasp teeth: Original Maison Archives clasps have five teeth, each with a small ball at the tip. Many later clips use four flat teeth.
2. The enamel colour: The turquoise on the original is a true robin's-egg blue with a slight translucency. Later versions tend to be flatter and darker.
3. The side profile: The original has a pronounced curve, almost like a saddle. Flatter bows were usually stamped from a single sheet of metal rather than moulded.
4. The weight: A genuine Arizona bow feels substantial because its base is brass.
5. The stamp: The "MA 522" oval stamp on the underside of the clip is the safest indicator, though early versions lack it.

Styling the Arizona Bow Today

A vintage bow barrette can feel like a costume piece if you style it too literally. The trick is to treat it as a neutral — a sculptural object that happens to be in your hair, rather than a historical re-enactment.

• Half-up, half-down: Gather the top section of your hair as if for a half-up style, twist it once, and clip the Arizona horizontally at the crown. This works beautifully with loose waves or a straightened bob.
• Low pony with a twist: Pull your hair into a low ponytail, wrap a small section around the elastic to hide it, then clip the Arizona just above the nape of the neck. The turquoise reads as a subtle colour accent against a navy or camel coat.
• Side sweep: For evening, sweep your hair to one side and use the Arizona to secure a deep side part. This is the most dramatic way to wear it, and it shows off the three-dimensional curve of the bow.

The Arizona pairs particularly well with modern tailoring. A cream silk blouse, a structured blazer, or a simple cashmere roll-neck are all excellent companions. Avoid wearing it with other turquoise accessories — the barrette should be the only statement piece. In summer, the Arizona works beautifully with a slicked-back bun and linen separates; in winter, it adds a warm note of colour to dark knits.

If you enjoy the sculptural quality of the Arizona, you might also appreciate the Velvet Braided Crown Headband, another Maison Archives piece with a similar balance of comfort and presence. And for those who prefer a softer, more romantic look, the Cilia Pearl Comb offers the same mid-century craftsmanship with a gentler silhouette.

Caring for Your Barrette

Vintage enamel is durable but not indestructible. With proper care, an Arizona bow can be worn regularly without damage.

• Clean gently: After wearing, wipe the enamel with a soft, dry cloth to remove oils from your hair. Avoid water and soap; moisture can seep into the tiny gaps between the enamel and the metal rim.
• Store separately: Do not toss it into a jewellery box with other pieces. The enamel can chip if it knocks against metal. Wrap it in a soft tissue or keep it in a small fabric pouch.
• Avoid heat: Do not leave the barrette in direct sunlight or near a radiator. Extreme heat can cause the enamel to craze — tiny hairline cracks appear on the surface. These are not always visible immediately, but they dull the colour over time.
• Handle the clasp with care: The alligator clip is spring-loaded. When opening it, press down on the two wings rather than pulling the bow itself. Pulling the bow can bend the metal at the point where it joins the clip.

If your Arizona bow has lost some of its shine, a very light rub with a jeweller's cloth (the kind used for silver) can help. Do not use any abrasive polish, and never use an ultrasonic cleaner — the vibration can shatter the enamel.

Where to Find One and What to Pay

The Arizona bow barrette is one of those pieces that rewards patience. It appears on auction sites perhaps a few times a year, often listed with vague descriptions like "vintage turquoise bow clip" or "retro hair barrette". Knowing the "MA 522" stamp and the distinctive saddle curve will give you an edge when browsing. When you do find one, examine the photos carefully — ask the seller for a side view and a photo of the clasp teeth.

Condition	Description	Typical price
Mint	No chips, original box, clasp firm	£75–£90
Very good	No chips, light wear, clasp firm	£55–£75
Good	Small scratches, enamel intact	£40–£55
Fair	Chipped enamel or replaced clasp	£20–£40

Portobello Road in London and the weekly antiques markets in Bath and Brighton occasionally turn up Maison Archives pieces, though the Arizona bow is more likely to surface at specialist vintage hair-accessory dealers. If you are shopping online, save a search for "Maison Archives barrette" and check it weekly — the best pieces are usually listed with imperfect photographs, and a sharp eye will spot the saddle curve before anyone else.

The box, by the way, is a lovely extra. Maison Archives packaged their barrettes in small cream boxes with a line drawing of the bow on the lid. These boxes are almost as rare as the barrettes themselves, and they add a layer of authenticity to any collection. If you ever see an Arizona bow with its original box, do not hesitate — that is a find worth telling your fellow collectors about.