The Kelly Bow Barrette: A Mid-Century British Hair Accessory from Maison Archives

The Kelly Bow Barrette from Maison Archives (catalogue code p514) is a 1950s hair accessory made from cellulose acetate in a warm tortoiseshell finish. Its bow silhouette is slightly asymmetrical, mimicking the way a ribbon might be tied by hand, but cast in rigid acetate to preserve the shape permanently. The spring clip is stamped with a tiny 'M.A.' logo, confirming its authenticity. Unlike the oversized claw clips of the 1980s or the ornate Victorian combs, this barrette belongs to a specific moment when structured bows became a shorthand for poised femininity.

The Bow Silhouette in Post-War Britain

The bow has been a recurring motif in hair accessories for centuries, but its post-war iteration was distinctly different. In the 1950s, designers like Christian Dior and Hardy Amies popularised the hourglass silhouette, and hair accessories followed suit. The Kelly Bow Barrette captures that restrained romance with its flat back and concealed clip, making it ideal for structured updos like the French twist or a high ponytail with a sweeping fringe. Acetate allowed for intricate curves that earlier materials like metal or celluloid could not achieve.

Materials and Craftsmanship

Cellulose acetate, the material of the Kelly Bow Barrette, was a marvel of mid-century industrial design. Unlike Bakelite, which was brittle, acetate could be moulded into thin, flexible shapes that retained their colour and lustre for decades. Maison Archives sourced their acetate from a now-defunct British mill in the Midlands, known for producing a distinctive marbled tortoiseshell pattern. The mill operated from 1920 to 1970 and was renowned for its high-quality acetate sheets. The Kelly Bow’s finish is a rich amber with darker brown streaks, imitating genuine tortoiseshell without harming any endangered species. To the touch, the surface is smooth and cool, with a slight weight that feels substantial in the hand. The spring clip is a simple two-pronged mechanism, each clip stamped with a tiny 'M.A.' logo on the inner curve – a detail that confirms authenticity.

Identifying a Genuine Kelly Bow Barrette

Reproductions of 1950s barrettes are common, but the store p514 piece has several telltale signs. The acetate is thick – at least 3 mm at the centre of the bow – and the marbling is continuous, meaning the pattern flows from one side to the other without a visible seam. The clip is made of nickel-plated steel, not brass or plastic, and it produces a crisp snap when opened. The bow’s profile is rounded, not flat, with a gentle curve that follows the shape of the head. Sharp, angular bows or flimsy clips indicate a later reproduction. The original Kelly Bow also came in a small cardboard box with a delicate line drawing of a woman’s profile, but these boxes are rarely preserved. The original weighs about 10 grams, while reproductions are often lighter.

Styling the Kelly Bow Barrette with a Modern Wardrobe

Pair the Kelly Bow with a relaxed silk blouse and high-waisted trousers for a contemporary British look. The bow adds structure without being frilly. Use it to secure a low ponytail or a half-up style, leaving the ends loose. The tortoiseshell colour complements both warm autumn tones and cool greys. For a more daring ensemble, clip it at the base of a centre-parted bob, letting the bow sit forward like a modernist brooch. The acetate is durable enough for daily wear, but avoid prolonged sunlight to prevent the amber hue from lightening.

Care and Conservation

Vintage acetate requires gentle handling. To clean the Kelly Bow Barrette, wipe it with a soft, dry cloth – do not use water or alcohol, as they can cloud the surface. If the clip becomes stiff, apply a tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge, then open and close it several times. Store the barrette flat, preferably in a lined jewellery box, away from other accessories that might scratch it. Avoid bending the bow, as acetate can crack under stress. With these precautions, the Kelly Bow can remain a wearable part of your collection for many more decades.

Why the Kelly Bow Endures

The Kelly Bow Barrette is a practical ornament that completes a look without overpowering it. The same design philosophy appears in other pieces from the same archive, such as the Braided Crown Headband, which also uses a restrained silhouette and high-quality materials. These pieces are for collectors who appreciate subtle craftsmanship over flashy trends. The store p514 Kelly Bow is a foundational piece for collectors, appearing in grainy family photographs from the 1950s and reappearing in vintage shops today. Its survival shows how a well-made bow can remain relevant across decades.

The 'M.A.' stamp on the spring clip is the most reliable way to distinguish a genuine Kelly Bow from later reproductions. If you find a barrette that looks similar but lacks the stamp, or if the acetate feels thin and lightweight, it is likely a reproduction. The original Kelly Bow was designed to be worn daily, not stored away. That practicality is its finest quality.