The Return of Vintage Hair Accessories: 1920s Combs, 1950s Bows, and 1990s Butterfly Clips

Last autumn, I spotted a woman on the Tube wearing a 1920s celluloid comb tucked behind her ear. It wasn’t a costume piece—the warm tortoiseshell glow and delicate fan shape were unmistakably original. Since then, I’ve seen them everywhere: on Brighton’s market-goers, Edinburgh’s evening promenaders, and in the hair of friends who never used to bother with accessories. The sleek, flat-ironed look that dominated the 2010s is giving way to something far more sculptural and personal: vintage hair accessories are making a grand return. Not the flimsy, fast-fashion iterations found in high-street bins, but the real thing—combs carved from early plastics, velvet bows with hand-stitched centres, and metal clips that have survived decades of dressing tables.

This resurgence is not random. Fashion historians point to the cyclical nature of style, where periods of minimalism (like the 1990s grunge or the 2010s normcore) are inevitably followed by a craving for ornament. The 1920s, 1950s, and 1990s are the three decades most frequently referenced in today’s vintage hair accessory revival. Each offers a distinct silhouette, material palette, and cultural echo that fits seamlessly into a modern wardrobe—if you know how to choose and wear them.

The 1920s: Geometry and Light

The 1920s gave us the first truly modern hair accessory: the decorative comb. Before the bob haircut became ubiquitous, women used long pins and combs to secure elaborate updos. But when the bob arrived, those same tools were repurposed as sculptural ornaments. Tortoiseshell (real and later celluloid) combs were carved into geometric fan shapes, often gilded or set with paste stones. The effect was Art Deco in miniature—light, precise, and architectural.

Today, these combs work beautifully as a single statement piece tucked behind one ear, paired with a sleek low bun or a deep side part. The key is contrast: let the comb’s intricate pattern be the focus against solid, unadorned hair. For a deeper dive into the geometry of these pieces, I recommend revisiting A February 2017 Discovery: The Enduring Geometry of 1920s Hair Pins, which explores the craft behind early metal and celluloid pins.

The 1950s: Velvet, Ribbon, and the Art of the Bow

If the 1920s were about geometry, the 1950s were about volume and texture. The post-war era embraced femininity with a sense of playful formality. Velvet bows, often wired to hold their shape, were clipped onto ponytails or pinned at the crown. Ribbon-wrapped barrettes and flower-studded combs adorned the hair of young women who wanted to look polished without being severe.

What makes 1950s accessories so wearable today is their forgiving scale. A medium-sized velvet bow in a deep jewel tone—emerald, burgundy, navy—adds instant elegance to a simple cashmere jumper or a white button-down. Avoid the temptation to over-accessorise; one bow is enough. I often advise readers to treat these pieces as jewellery for the hair, not as functional hair-holders. They are ornaments first, tools second.

The 1990s: Butterfly Clips and the Return of Whimsy

The 1990s revival has been perhaps the most surprising, yet it makes perfect sense. After decades of minimalist restraint, the return of the butterfly clip—those translucent, glitter-infused, spring-loaded clips in the shape of insect wings—feels like a breath of joy. First popularised in the mid-1990s by brands like Goody and Claire’s, these clips were a childhood staple for many British women. Now they are back, spotted on the heads of fashion editors and street-style stars alike.

But here is the nuance: the 1990s butterfly clip was not a luxury item. It was a mass-produced, cheerful piece of plastic that cost pennies. Today, collectors seek out original examples in mint condition, especially those made in Japan or the United States with bright colour gradients. The key to wearing them in a grown-up way is to treat them as a single accent—one butterfly clipped to a low side ponytail or pinned to a half-up style. Let the clip be the focal point; keep the rest of the outfit simple and clean.

Materials and Craftsmanship: What to Look For

When hunting for vintage hair accessories, the material tells you everything about age, quality, and care requirements. Celluloid, a semi-synthetic plastic used from the 1880s to the 1930s, is lightweight and can mimic tortoiseshell or ivory. It is also flammable, so keep it away from open flames. Bakelite, a dense thermoset plastic popular in the 1920s–1940s, has a distinctive clunk when tapped and a warm, earthy smell when rubbed. Both are collectible, but Bakelite is more durable.

For metal accessories, look for sterling silver or gold-filled pieces from the 1950s–1970s. These hold up well and can be polished with a soft cloth. Velvet and ribbon items require more care: store them away from humidity and direct sunlight to prevent fading. Never use water on velvet; instead, blot gently with a dry cloth.

If you are drawn to feather accessories, the span of possibilities is immense. From ostrich plumes to pheasant tips, feathers were a staple of Edwardian and 1920s hair fashion. For a guide to sourcing, wearing, and caring for these delicate pieces, see Finding My Inner Ostrich: A Guide to Vintage Feather Hair Accessories. That article covers everything from ethical sourcing to storage techniques.

Three Ways to Wear a Vintage Hair Comb Today

• Single statement piece: Choose a large, ornate comb and slide it into a low chignon or a twisted side bun. Works best with hair that has some texture, either natural wave or a soft curl.
• Paired with a modern headband: Layer a thin velvet headband over a geometric 1920s comb placed at the nape of the neck. This creates a look that bridges decades.
• As a hair brooch: Use a small comb as a decorative element on a braid or crown braid, securing it with bobby pins underneath. The comb becomes a glittering accent, much like a brooch on a lapel.

Care and Storage: Keeping Your Find Alive

Vintage hair accessories are not indestructible. Celluloid can become brittle with age; Bakelite can crack if dropped. Store combs and clips flat in a lined box, separated by soft tissue paper. Avoid keeping them in a bathroom—the humidity is a slow killer. Metal accessories should be wrapped in acid-free tissue to prevent tarnish spreading to other pieces.

For cleaning, a gentle approach is best. Dust with a soft brush. For metal, use a mild jewellery cleaner (avoid ammonia). For celluloid, a damp cloth and immediate drying is sufficient. Never soak vintage plastics. If a piece is particularly dirty, consult a professional conservator who specialises in costume jewellery.

The Grand Return: A Personal Note

This revival is not about nostalgia for its own sake. It is about choosing objects that carry history, craftsmanship, and a sense of individuality. Wearing a vintage hair accessory is a small act of rebellion against the uniformity of fast fashion. It says: I took the time to find something that mattered, something that has already lived one life and is beginning another.

So next time you pass a charity shop window and spot a worn velvet bow or a dusty celluloid comb, pause. That piece may have been waiting decades for its moment to return. Take it home, give it a gentle clean, and wear it as a quiet nod to the past—and to the future of your own style.