The Store p199 Leaf Hairclip: A Mid-Century British Accessory

The Store p199 leaf hairclip, with its gently curved foliage silhouette and subtle gold-toned finish, is a quiet treasure of mid-century British accessories. Unlike the more exuberant floral clips that often dominate vintage collections, this barrette takes its cue from a single leaf — a form that feels both restrained and deeply connected to the natural world. The p199 code, stamped discreetly on the reverse, points to a stock number used by a British manufacturer or retailer, likely from the 1950s or early 1960s, when nature-inspired motifs enjoyed a remarkable revival in women's hair accessories.

Decoding the p199: A Collector's First Clue

The 'p' prefix in the code suggests a product category — possibly 'pin' or 'piece' — within a broader catalogue system. Many British accessory houses, such as those based in Birmingham's jewellery quarter, used similar alphanumeric codes to track designs across seasons. The p199 leaf hairclip is almost always found in a gold- or silver-toned metal base, often with a delicate wash of green enamel on the leaf surface to imitate the veins and variegation of a living leaf. Some examples show a lighter, almost translucent enamel that catches the light, while others use a solid, opaque colour. The spring mechanism is typically a simple French barrette clip, allowing the piece to grip a section of hair securely without causing damage.

The Leaf Motif in Mid-Century British Fashion

Leaf-shaped accessories were not mere decoration; they carried symbolic weight. In post-war Britain, when rationing still lingered in memory, organic forms offered an affordable touch of the outdoors. Designers drew inspiration from the Arts and Crafts movement's reverence for botanical accuracy, as well as from the naturalistic prints that appeared on fabrics by Liberty and other textile houses. The leaf barrette became a subtle statement of taste — a nod to the garden, to leisurely country walks, and to a quiet elegance that did not rely on overt sparkle. Much like the star motif explored in our guide to The Vintage Star Hair Clip: A British Fashion History, the leaf shape carries its own symbolic weight, representing growth, renewal, and a connection to the British countryside.

Materials and Techniques Behind the p199

Most p199 leaf clips are made from a base metal — often brass or an alloy plated with gold or silver. The enamel is applied using a technique called cold enamelling or, on higher-end pieces, vitreous enamelling fired at high temperature. The latter gives a glass-like finish that resists chipping far better than modern resin coatings. The leaf's veins are either pressed into the metal during the die-stamping process or painted on by hand. Collectors prize examples where the enamel is well preserved, as scratches and wear can detract from the illusion of a fresh leaf. The spring mechanism is usually a simple steel tension clip, sometimes with a slight patina that speaks to its age.

How to Identify an Authentic p199

• Check the stamp: Look for 'p199' or 'Store p199' engraved on the underside of the barrette, often near the hinge.
• Examine the enamel: Genuine vintage pieces show slight irregularity in the enamel surface — a sign of hand application or firing, not modern mass production.
• Test the spring: The clip should open and close with a firm snap. A weak spring may be repairable, but original tension is a good sign of careful storage.
• Look for base metal marks: Some pieces carry a 'Made in England' stamp or a hallmark indicating the metal content, though many fashion accessories were not hallmarked.

Cult Silhouettes: The Leaf Barrette in 20th-Century Hairstyles

Leaf barrettes like the p199 were designed to complement the structured hairstyles of the 1950s — the French roll, the pompadour, and the sculpted bouffant. A single leaf placed near the crown could echo the upward sweep of a roll, while a pair worn on either side of a centre part framed the face softly. In the 1960s, as hairstyles grew more geometric, the leaf clip was often used to tuck a section of hair behind the ear, adding a natural accent to sleek, straight styles. For those who appreciate how designers reinterpret vintage forms, our article on The Sukie Yuki Red Hair Clip: A Vintage British Accessory Reimagined shows how a modern maker can take a classic silhouette and give it a completely new identity through colour and finish.

Pairing the p199 with a Contemporary Wardrobe

The leaf barrette is surprisingly versatile. Its organic shape softens tailored outfits — think a cream blazer with a silk scarf, or a simple cashmere jumper. For a more bohemian look, wear the clip to secure a loose side braid or to gather a half-up twist. The neutral gold-and-green palette works well with earthy tones: olive, rust, beige, and navy. Avoid over-accessorising; let the leaf be the single focal point. One practical tip: because the clip has a vintage spring mechanism, it grips best on hair that is not too fine or slippery. A light spritz of texturising spray or a quick backcomb at the root will give the clip enough purchase to stay put all day.

Bereavement and Care for Your Vintage Leaf

To keep the p199 in good condition, follow these simple steps:

• Clean gently: Wipe the metal and enamel with a soft, dry cloth after each wear. If needed, use a barely damp cotton bud to remove residue from around the spring — never soak the clip.
• Store flat: Place the barrette in a fabric-lined jewellery box or a small pouch, away from other metal accessories that could scratch the enamel.
• Avoid heat and sun: Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can fade the enamel colour, and high temperatures may weaken the spring tension.
• Handle the spring with care: Do not open and close the clip repeatedly in one sitting; the metal can fatigue. A smooth, controlled movement preserves the mechanism.

A Final Detail for the Discerning Collector

When you find a p199 with its original spring still firm and the green enamel intact, you are holding a piece of 1950s garden-party glamour – a little leaf that whispers of summer afternoons and carefully curled hair. Look closely at the veins: some variations show a subtle ridge that mimics the central vein of an oak leaf, while others are smooth like a willow. That small difference may indicate a run from a particular year or factory, and tracing it can become a delightful rabbit hole for a dedicated collector.