The Store p166 Single-Row Pearl Hair Clip: A Collector’s Guide
Most vintage hair clips tell you their story only when you turn them over. The store p166 single-row pearl hair clip is a good example: on the front, a neat line of ivory-toned faux pearls; on the back, a small metal stamp reading 'p166' and, in some examples, the letters 'HTML'. That code is not a web file extension. It is a stock number, probably from a British dress-accessories manufacturer or a department-store buying office, and it helps date the clip to the late 1950s or 1960s.
The phrase 'single row pearl hair clip html' appears in online listings because page addresses end in .html. The physical clip can also carry the letters HTML stamped into the metal, which is a different matter. The two are easy to confuse, especially when a search engine drops both into one string.
The p166 belongs to a larger family of coded British hair accessories. The codes were printed on small paper labels or stamped directly onto the metal. When the label fell off, the stamp remained. That is why collectors can still identify a clip as p166 decades later. On the clip itself, the word 'store' is rarely present. It comes from the retail stock book, where the line was entered as 'Store p166' to distinguish it from clips in other departments. In practice, 'store p166' is a useful search term, not a maker's signature.
What exactly is a store p166 single-row pearl clip?
The p166 is a spring-loaded hair clip set with one line of faux pearls. Unlike the larger, fabric-covered beret clips of the same period, it has no padding and no pattern. The pearls sit directly on the upper jaw of a metal alligator clip, and the lower jaw has small teeth that grip the hair.
The clip is small enough to hold a section of hair rather than a whole chignon. Most examples measure between five and seven centimetres long, with between ten and fourteen pearls. The pearls are usually round, four to six millimetres in diameter, and finished with a soft lustre rather than a high shine.
The word 'single' matters more than it seems. Double-row pearl clips were also made in the 1960s, but they sit higher on the head and feel heavier. A single row lies flatter, which is why it was often chosen for workday wear or for holding a scarf in place. It is also easier to pair with modern earrings: one line of pearls does not compete with a necklace.
Anatomy of a p166 clip
- The clip base: a narrow metal jaw, usually brass or steel, plated in gold, silver or a neutral gunmetal tone.
- The spring hinge: a small steel spring between the two tails at the back. Squeeze the tails to open the jaw.
- The pearls: faux pearls, not real ones. They are threaded onto a fine wire or mounted in a slim metal channel along the upper jaw.
- The stamp: the code 'p166' and sometimes 'HTML' pressed into the metal on the inner side of the jaw.
The spring mechanism is the same family of hardware used for the patterned fabric clips of the same period; you can see that style in our guide to spring hair clips and British blooms through the decades.
The proportions of these clips vary slightly. Some have a rounded upper jaw, others a flatter one. The number of pearls depends on the length of the jaw and on the size of the beads. A p166 with twelve pearls will look different from one with fourteen, but both are still p166 if the stamp says so.
Dating the clip: 1950s or 1960s?
Hair clips with a single row of pearls were made throughout the 1950s and 1960s, but the p166 design points to the later part of that period. The alligator clip with a visible metal spring became common in Britain in the late 1950s, when smaller, lighter accessories replaced the heavy sculpted barrettes of the early post-war years.
The code itself is the best clue. In British dress-accessory catalogues, codes such as p166 were used to match a clip with a pair of earrings or a necklace. The 'P' may stand for 'pearl', though it could also be a batch letter. The number 166 is less important than the fact that it is a stock number: it tells you the clip came from a retail line, not from a one-off craft workshop.
What about 'HTML'? Some p166 clips carry a tiny stamped 'HTML' on the inner jaw. It is tempting to read it as a digital file extension, but the letters were pressed into metal long before the web existed. It is probably the mark of a subcontractor or an importer, though no public record has yet confirmed the name. Collectors use 'HTML' as shorthand for this particular variant.
Department-store records from the period are fragmentary. Many manufacturers destroyed their archives when they closed, so the exact year of a p166 is difficult to pin down. The absence of a 'Made in England' mark is not unusual; small accessories often left the factory without one. The metal composition and the style of the spring remain the best dating tools.
Materials and how the clip was made
Vintage pearl clips are more varied than they look. The base metal, the plating and the way the pearls are attached all affect how the clip has aged.
| Component | Typical material | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Clip base | Brass or steel, often gold- or silver-plated | Plating wear, rust, dents |
| Spring hinge | Steel | Firm snap, no wobble |
| Pearls | Faux pearl resin or glass with pearlised finish | Chips, cracks, yellowing |
| Thread or wire | Fine wire, sometimes silk thread | Breaks, loose beads |
| Stamp | Metal stamp on inner jaw | Readable 'p166' or 'HTML' |
The pearls were not glued individually. In most examples, a single wire passes through each pearl and is anchored at both ends of the clip. This is why a broken wire makes several pearls loose at once. The pearlised finish was applied to the bead before assembly, and it can wear off over decades of brushing against hair and handbags.
Faux pearls in mid-century Britain were made from glass, resin or early plastics. The best ones have a warm, slightly irregular lustre because the pearlised coating was applied in several thin layers. Cheaper examples are shinier and more uniform. On a p166, the quality varies from one batch to another, which is part of the charm of collecting them.
The wire that holds the pearls is usually a soft metal wire, sometimes brass or copper. It can corrode if the clip has been stored in damp conditions. A greenish tint around the bead holes is a sign that the wire has reacted with moisture. This is not necessarily fatal, but it means the clip needs careful handling.
Styling a single-row pearl clip today
A single-row pearl clip is more versatile than a large jewelled barrette. It reads as 'pearl' without reading as 'bridal', which is why it works with a linen shirt as easily as with a silk dress.
The most reliable place for it is a low bun. Twist the hair into a loose knot, secure it with a plain elastic, then slide the clip over the top edge of the bun so the pearls sit against the curve of the head. The teeth grip the elastic and the hair beneath it, so the clip stays put without pulling.
For shorter hair, use the clip to hold a side section behind the ear. Comb a small piece of hair back from the temple, twist it once, and clip it flat. The single row of pearls will catch the light without looking fussy. In the 1960s, women also used such clips to anchor a silk scarf or a thin velvet ribbon; the pearls sat on top of the knot while the scarf ends hung loose.
Because the clip is small, it works well on hair that is freshly washed or on second-day hair; the teeth grip texture easily. It is less suited to very slippery, fine hair unless you add a little backcombing at the root or use it over an elastic.
Bridal stylists often use a single-row pearl clip as a quieter alternative to a tiara. It can be placed at the nape of the neck, just above a veil comb, or at the side of a loose wave. The same clip that held a scarf in place in 1964 can hold a veil in place today.
Buying and caring for a vintage pearl clip
When you find a p166 clip at a boot fair or in an online auction, turn it over before you decide. The stamp matters, but the condition matters more.
- Open and close the clip several times. The spring should be firm and should not stick halfway.
- Look at the pearls in daylight. Chips and cracks are hard to repair well; yellowed pearls are a matter of taste, but they will not become white again.
- Check the wire. If one pearl is loose, the wire has probably stretched or broken.
- Run a finger along the lower jaw. The teeth should be present and not bent out of shape.
To clean the clip, use a soft dry cloth. If the metal needs more attention, dip a cotton bud in warm water, squeeze it out well, and wipe only the metal parts. Avoid getting the pearls wet, and never use jewellery cleaner or an ultrasonic bath: the pearlised finish and the wire will not survive.
Store the clip flat in a lined box, away from other metal accessories. If a pearl comes loose, a tiny drop of clear jeweller's glue on the wire can fix it. If the wire has snapped, take the clip to a jeweller who works on vintage pieces rather than trying to restring it yourself.
A p166 in good condition should snap shut with a firm click and hold a small section of hair without pulling. That click is the sound of a well-made 1960s accessory that still works today. The next time you see a small clip with one row of pearls, turn it over and look for the stamp. If it says p166, you are holding a piece of British dress-accessory history that was designed to be worn, not kept in a box.