Store C39 Claws: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage British Hair Clips

When the Maison Archives classification system was first developed in the late 1990s, the code C39 was reserved for a specific category of spring-loaded hair clips that had long been overlooked by mainstream collectors. These are the claw clips – also known as crocodile clips or alligator clips – that became a staple of British hair styling from the 1960s through the 1980s. Unlike the rigid barrettes or delicate combs that dominate many vintage collections, C39 claws rely on a clever internal spring mechanism and a set of interlocking teeth to grip hair securely without the need for pins or elastics. Understanding how to identify, store, and wear these pieces is essential for anyone building a thoughtful vintage accessory wardrobe.

What Exactly Are C39 Claw Clips?

The term “claw clip” covers a wide family of hair accessories, but the C39 designation narrows it to vintage British pieces made between the early 1960s and the mid-1980s, typically constructed from cellulose acetate (often in tortoiseshell or jet black), metal (brass or nickel-plated steel), or early thermoplastics. What unites them is the spring-loaded hinge that forces two sets of curved teeth together when the clip is closed. To open the clip, you press down on the raised “ears” or tabs at the hinge, which release the tension. This design was patented in the 1950s and quickly adopted by British manufacturers such as Barretts of London and the now-defunct Acme Hair Goods Co.

Key features that distinguish C39 claws from later mass-produced versions include:

• Hand-assembled springs – early clips use a coiled wire spring that can be replaced; later clips use a stamped metal spring that is riveted in place.
• Cellulose acetate construction – the material feels warm to the touch and develops a subtle patina over decades, unlike modern brittle plastics.
• Decorative elements – many C39 claws feature carved ridges, painted enamel details, or applied trim such as ric rac or ribbon. For collectors interested in decorative variations, the ric rac tortoiseshell hair clip is a fine example of how C39 claws often incorporated playful trim that reflected the exuberance of 1970s British fashion.
• Markings – look for a faint “C39” stamp on the inside of one of the teeth, or a maker’s mark like “B.L.” or “Acme” on the hinge plate. Not all pieces are marked, but those that are command higher collector interest.

How to Identify an Authentic C39 Claw Clip

Because the C39 code is specific to the Maison Archives system – a private cataloguing method used by a network of British vintage dealers – not every vintage claw clip will carry that label. However, you can identify clips that belong to this classification by looking at three criteria: material, construction, and era-appropriate design.

Material check: Authentic C39 clips are never made of the hard, shiny acrylic that dominates 1990s claw clips. Instead, they use cellulose acetate (which has a slight camphor smell when warmed) or metal with visible patina. If the clip feels lightweight and has a uniform glossy colour with no grain variation, it is likely a later reproduction.

Construction check: Turn the clip over and examine the hinge. A genuine C39 clip will have a visible coiled spring held in place by a small pin or screw. The teeth should be individually formed and slightly flexible – not a single moulded block. The clip should open and close with a firm, even resistance; a loose or rattling hinge indicates wear or a replaced spring.

Era-appropriate design: C39 claws from the 1960s tend to be smaller (about 5–7 cm in length) with narrow teeth and a subtle curve. By the 1970s, clips grew larger and bolder, often with wide teeth and colourful enamel overlays. The 1980s saw a return to minimalism, with sleek black or tortoiseshell clips that could hold a full chignon. If a clip has a very modern logo or a plastic hinge cover, it is not a C39.

Storing C39 Claws for Longevity

Vintage claw clips are surprisingly durable, but their spring mechanisms and delicate teeth require thoughtful storage. The most common mistake collectors make is leaving clips closed under tension for years, which fatigues the spring and can cause the teeth to warp. Instead, store C39 claws in the open position whenever possible. A shallow tray lined with acid-free tissue paper works well; place each clip with the teeth facing upward and the hinge slightly spread. If you must store them closed, wrap a small piece of soft cotton cloth between the teeth to relieve pressure.

Humidity is another concern. Cellulose acetate can absorb moisture and become brittle, while metal springs may rust in damp conditions. Keep your C39 clips in a dry environment – a drawer with a silica gel packet is ideal. Avoid direct sunlight, which can fade tortoiseshell patterns and cause plastic to yellow. For a deeper dive into caring for related vintage accessories, the quiet elegance of the rectangle barrette article offers cleaning and storage tips that apply equally to claw clips, especially those with metal components.

Styling C39 Claws with Contemporary Wardrobes

The beauty of C39 claw clips lies in their versatility. Unlike the heavy, oversized claws of the 1990s, vintage British claws have a refined profile that works equally well with a silk slip dress or a chunky knit sweater. For a modern interpretation, try a low, loose twist secured with a single tortoiseshell claw – the teeth grip hair gently without pulling, making them ideal for fine or delicate hair. For half-up styles, two smaller metal claws placed symmetrically behind the ears create a clean, architectural look that echoes the 1960s mod aesthetic.

When mixing vintage claws with contemporary pieces, pay attention to metal finishes. A brass claw pairs beautifully with warm gold jewellery, while nickel-plated clips complement silver or platinum tones. Avoid mixing too many textures – let the clip be the focal point. One of the most elegant current trends is wearing a single large C39 claw as a statement piece, with the rest of the hair left loose and naturally textured. This approach respects the clip’s original design intent while embracing modern simplicity.

Where to Find C39 Claws

Because the C39 code is not a public retail category, finding these clips requires a bit of detective work. Start by visiting vintage fairs and estate sales in the UK, particularly in areas with strong textile and accessory manufacturing histories such as Manchester, Leicester, and the East End of London. Look for dealers who specialise in “vintage haberdashery” – they often have boxes of unmarked clips that, upon inspection, match the C39 criteria. Online, the Maison Archives occasionally releases small batches of C39 clips during their seasonal sales, though these sell out quickly. Another reliable source is the auctions of retired hairdressers’ stock; many salon owners kept drawers of unused clips from the 1970s and 1980s that are still in pristine condition.

When you do find a potential C39, always test the spring tension before buying. Press the tabs to open the clip fully; it should open smoothly without sticking. Then let it close slowly – the teeth should meet evenly along their entire length. A clip that snaps shut aggressively may have a damaged spring that cannot be repaired. Conversely, one that closes too loosely will not hold hair. With practice, you can assess the quality of a clip in seconds, and that skill will serve you well as you build a collection that is both beautiful and functional.