How to Store 18th-Century Hats: Tricorne, Calash, and More
An 18th-century tricorne hat is not just a piece of clothing; its structure of buckram, wire, and millinery felt requires a precise approach to storage that many modern collectors overlook. The same careful logic applies to calashes, mob caps, and the towering pompadour styles of the late 1700s. Owners of these hats—whether a single inherited piece or a growing collection—all face the same challenge: keeping the shape, colour, and materials intact for decades.
Why 18th-Century Hats Demand Special Attention
Hats from the 1700s were constructed using materials that behave very differently from modern synthetics. The most common base was buckram — a stiff linen or cotton fabric treated with gum or starch. Over this, milliners stitched silk, wool felt, beaver fur, or straw. Trims included silk ribbons, feathers, artificial flowers, and sometimes metal thread or glass beads. Each of these components has its own vulnerabilities: silk can shatter under light, feathers attract pests, and buckram collapses if bent or exposed to moisture. Storing a hat as a single object means managing the competing needs of all these materials at once.
Environmental Conditions: The Triad of Temperature, Humidity, and Light
The most important factor in long-term storage is a stable environment. Aim for a relative humidity of 45–55% and a temperature between 18°C and 21°C. Fluctuations cause the organic materials to expand and contract, leading to warping, splitting, or mildew. A simple digital hygrometer inside your storage cabinet will alert you to changes.
- Light: Ultraviolet rays fade and embrittle silk, wool, and feathers. Store hats away from direct sunlight and use UV-blocking film on windows if the room has natural light. For hats on display, rotate them every few months so that no single side receives continuous exposure.
- Airflow: Stagnant air encourages mould, especially in damp British winters. A small dehumidifier in the room or silica gel packets inside the storage box (replaced regularly) can help, but never seal a hat in an airtight container without a desiccant — trapped moisture is worse than fluctuating humidity.
Supporting the Shape: Hat Stands, Blocks, and Boxes
Never stack 18th-century hats or store them flat. The brims and crowns are often wired or shaped over a block, and gravity will eventually distort them. The best solution is a padded hat stand that matches the original interior shape of the crown. For tricornes, which have a low crown and wide brim folded up on three sides, a custom padded block or a roll of acid-free tissue paper inside the crown can maintain the silhouette.
| Hat Type | Recommended Support | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tricorne / bicorne | Padded crown block with a felt-covered brim rest | Keep the brim folds supported with tissue rolls |
| Calash (collapsible bonnet) | Use a wig stand or mushroom block; store expanded | Never compress the folding ribs — they may crack |
| Mob cap (soft cloth) | Acid-free tissue stuffing inside the crown | Lay flat in a shallow box, not folded |
| Pompadour / high-crown straw | Tall cylindrical hat box with a central stand | Support the crown from inside; do not rest weight on the brim |
For boxes, choose archival-quality, acid-free cardboard or a wooden chest lined with cotton muslin. Avoid plastic boxes unless they are made of inert polypropylene — most plastics off-gas chemicals that can degrade silk and feathers over time.
Handling and Cleaning: What to Do and What to Avoid
Before storing, remove any loose dust with a soft, clean brush (a squirrel-hair or natural-bristle paintbrush works well). For silk hats, do not use water or any solvent without first testing on an inconspicuous area. Feathers and artificial flowers are especially fragile; if they are loose, wrap them separately in acid-free tissue and place them inside the box near the crown, not touching the hat body.
If you notice a musty smell, air the hat in a shaded, well-ventilated room for a few hours — never in direct sunlight. Mould must be removed by a professional textile conservator; home remedies like vinegar or bleach can permanently damage the fibres.
Pest Prevention: The Silent Threat
Wool felt and feathers are a feast for clothes moths and carpet beetles. Inspect your hats every three months, especially along the inner brim and under the crown lining where insects tend to hide. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets can be placed in the storage box — they are pleasant and effective repellents, but they must be replaced annually as the scent fades. Naphthalene mothballs are not recommended because they can leave a chemical residue that is difficult to remove and may attract larvae instead of repelling them.
If you find a live insect, isolate the hat immediately in a sealed bag for a few days and freeze it at -18°C for 48 hours to kill eggs and larvae. Then let the hat thaw slowly inside the bag to avoid condensation, before returning it to storage.
Long-Term Storage: A Practical Checklist
- Clean the hat gently before storage to remove oils and dust that attract pests.
- Support the crown with acid-free tissue or a padded block — never hang a hat by its brim.
- Use a box that is at least 5 cm larger than the hat on all sides to avoid crushing.
- Label the box with the hat’s date, materials, and any known provenance (photographs are helpful).
- Check humidity and temperature twice a year, and inspect the hat for damage or pest activity.
The next time you take your hat out—for a costume event or simply to admire—you'll see the difference. The silk won't have shattered, the buckram won't have collapsed, and the feathers will still hold their curve. That's the payoff of proper storage.