Straw Cone Hats: A Vintage British Hair Accessory Guide
The straw cone hat, known in millinery circles as the 'sunray' or 'coolie' shape, is perhaps the most misunderstood accessory in the vintage hair canon. Many collectors mistake it for mere sun protection, but its true purpose was architectural: it framed the face, controlled the hairline, and anchored the entire silhouette of an outfit. In Britain, where the sun is a fickle guest, the straw cone hat flourished not as a response to weather but as a sculptural statement.
The form originated in late-Victorian seaside resorts, where women wore tightly woven leghorn straw hats with conical crowns to shield their complexions while promenading. By the 1910s, the shape had migrated inland. The cone's steep angle meant that hair was pinned severely close to the head—often in a low chignon or a flat twist—so that the hat could sit without disturbing the coiffure. This constraint created a distinct hairstyle genre: the 'hat-hair' look, where the visible strands were smoothed into gleaming bands or tiny curls that peeked from beneath the brim.
Materials and Weave: What to Look For
Authentic vintage straw cone hats were made from one of three materials, each with a different effect on the hair beneath:
- Leghorn straw – A fine, pliable Italian wheat straw, bleached to a pale cream. It is lightweight and breathes, so hair stays dry even on warm days. The brim can be shaped by hand without cracking.
- Baku straw – Made from the leaves of the talipot palm, this is stiffer and has a natural golden sheen. It holds its conical shape without internal wire, but it is brittle; vintage pieces often have small splits at the crown apex.
- Milan straw – A machine-woven rayon or cotton blend that became common after 1930. It is heavier and less breathable, but it takes dye beautifully. Many British-made cone hats from the 1940s use Milan straw in olive, navy, or black.
When inspecting a vintage piece, run your fingers along the inside rim. The original sweatband—often a strip of petersham ribbon—should be intact. If it is missing or replaced with a modern elastic, the hat will not sit correctly on pinned hair, and you risk the cone sliding backward.
The 1920s and the Cloche-Cone Hybrid
The 1920s saw a peculiar fusion: the cloche hat, which hugged the head like a helmet, met the conical crown of the straw hat. The result was a hat that sat low on the brow but rose to a sharp point at the back. This shape required a specific hairstyle—the Eton crop or a very short bob—because no bulk at the nape was allowed. Women who wore their hair longer would pin it into a tight roll at the crown, then let the hat's interior cavity hide the pins.
This era also introduced decorative hatpins, which were thrust through the cone to anchor it to the hair beneath. A surviving hatpin with a coloured glass or silver top can double the value of a vintage straw cone hat. For collectors, the presence of the original pin hole—a small reinforced eyelet—is a sign of authenticity.
Post-War Revival: The 1950s Garden Party Cone
After the war, British milliners revived the cone shape for garden parties and race meetings. These hats were wider-brimmed and often trimmed with silk flowers, veiling, or velvet ribbons. The hair underneath was styled into a high ponytail or a French roll, because the hat sat atop the crown rather than low on the forehead. This shift meant that the cone hat became a backdrop for elaborate hair accessories: a velvet bow or a jewelled clip would be pinned just below the brim, visible when the hat was tipped back.
For modern styling, the 1950s cone hat pairs beautifully with the Gingham Top Knot Headband—the headband's structured knot echoes the hat's conical line, creating a cohesive vintage look without wearing two competing shapes. Alternatively, a Velvet Twist Headband in a contrasting colour can be worn underneath the hat, with the twist peeking out at the temples for a layered effect.
How to Wear a Straw Cone Hat Today
The practical challenge of the straw cone hat is keeping it on your head without damaging your hairstyle. Here is a method that works for medium-length and long hair:
- Start with clean, dry hair. Apply a light pomade or wax to the front sections to prevent flyaways.
- Gather the hair into a low ponytail at the nape, then twist it upward into a flat coil against the back of the head. Secure with U-shaped pins, not bobby pins—U-pins hold more tension.
- Place the hat so that the inner crown rests on the coil, not on bare scalp. The coil acts as a cushion and friction point.
- If the hat has a ribbon tie, cross the ties under your chin and knot them loosely. If it has no ties, use two small hairpins inserted from the outside of the hat into the coil—this is period-correct and invisible from the front.
For shorter hair, a velvet or grosgrain headband worn under the hat can add grip. The Leopard Print Headband works surprisingly well here: its printed texture catches the straw fibres and prevents slipping, while the animal print adds a 1950s contrast to a plain straw cone.
Care and Storage
Straw is a natural fibre that dries out over decades. To prevent cracking, store your cone hat in a cool, dark place with moderate humidity—never in direct sunlight or near a radiator. Use a padded hat stand that supports the brim evenly, not a hook that distorts the cone's peak.
Cleaning should be minimal. If the straw has yellowed, a gentle wipe with a cloth dampened in weak tea (for light straw) or diluted vinegar (for dark straw) can restore colour. Test on the underside first. Never soak a vintage straw hat; the stitching will rot.
If the brim has lost its shape, you can re-steam it: hold the hat over a kettle spout for 30 seconds, then gently coax the brim into the desired curve with your fingers. Let it cool completely before wearing. This technique is safe for all three straw types mentioned above, but avoid steam on any glued-on trim.
What to Avoid
A common mistake is wearing a straw cone hat in the rain. Even a light drizzle will cause leghorn and Milan straw to pucker, and the hat will never regain its smooth surface. If you are caught in a shower, blot the hat immediately with a dry towel and let it air dry on a stand—do not use a hairdryer.
Another pitfall is over-trimming. Many modern sellers glue plastic flowers or cheap lace onto vintage cone hats, thinking they are improving them. This reduces the hat's value and often damages the straw underneath. If you find a stripped-down cone hat with only the original ribbon, leave it as is—it is more versatile and more authentic.
The straw cone hat is not a casual accessory. It demands intention in the hairstyle, the outfit, and the occasion. But when worn correctly, it transforms the silhouette in a way that few other hats can match—it lifts the eye upward, lengthens the neck, and gives the wearer a poised, architectural grace that belongs to the best of British millinery tradition.