Products Ric Rac: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Zigzag Trim
When you sort through a box of vintage hair accessories at a flea market in Brighton or browse a dusty haberdashery shelf in a Cotswolds town, one trim appears again and again: ric rac. That tight, wavy ribbon—usually cotton, sometimes silk or synthetic—has decorated British hair clips, headbands, and barrettes for nearly a century. But not all ric rac is the same. The products that carry it vary in width, wave frequency, material, and intended use. Knowing these differences transforms a casual collector into someone who can spot a 1940s piece from a 1970s repro at a glance.
Let’s walk through the main categories of ric rac products you will encounter in vintage British hair accessories, with practical details that help you identify, date, and care for each type.
Width and Wave Count: The Two Key Measurements
Ric rac is defined by two numbers: the width from peak to peak and the number of waves per inch. Standard vintage ric rac for hair accessories came in three widths:
- No. 1 (narrow, ~3 mm): Used for delicate edging on small barrettes and children’s accessories. The waves are tight and frequent—about 6–7 per inch. This size rarely appears on adult pieces after the 1950s.
- No. 3 (medium, ~6 mm): The most common width on mid-century British hair clips. Waves are 4–5 per inch. This is the ric rac you see on tortoiseshell clips and pastel headbands from the 1950s and 1960s.
- No. 5 (wide, ~12 mm): Bold and dramatic, used on large hair combs and statement pieces from the 1940s and again in the 1980s. Waves are 3–4 per inch, giving a looser, more sculptural look.
A fourth size, No. 6 (extra wide, ~18 mm), exists but was rare in British millinery before the 1970s. When you see it on a vintage piece, the accessory is almost certainly from the late 1970s or later, often imported from the United States.
To measure wave frequency, lay the trim flat and count the peaks along one inch. A consistent count across the entire length is a hallmark of machine-made vintage ric rac. Handmade or repro pieces sometimes vary by half a wave per inch, which you can detect with a ruler and a magnifying glass.
Materials: Cotton, Silk, and Synthetic
Vintage ric rac products were made from three main fibres, each with distinct properties and care requirements.
| Material | Era | Characteristics | Care |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | 1920s–1960s | Matte finish, soft drape, holds colour well. Most common on everyday hair clips and headbands. | Hand wash cold, air dry away from direct sunlight. Iron on low heat with a pressing cloth. |
| Silk | 1930s–1950s | Lustrous sheen, stiffer feel, used on formal or evening accessories. Often found on combs and ornate barrettes. | Dry clean only. Never soak silk ric rac—the waves can distort permanently. |
| Synthetic (nylon, polyester) | 1960s onward | High sheen, very stiff, heat-sensitive. Common on mass-produced accessories from the 1970s and 1980s. | Wipe clean with a damp cloth. Do not iron. The waves hold their shape even after decades, which helps in dating. |
To test fibre without damaging the piece, look at a single wave under magnification. Cotton fibres are short and fuzzy; silk is smooth with occasional irregularities; synthetic fibres are perfectly uniform and often shiny. If you can see tiny pilling on the peaks of the waves, the trim is cotton. If the peaks are sharp and glassy, it is synthetic.
Product Categories: Where You Find Ric Rac
Ric rac appears on three main types of vintage British hair accessories. Each category has its own collectors’ market and typical price range.
Hair Clips and Barrettes
The most common ric rac product is the spring-loaded hair clip with a strip of trim glued or stitched across the top. These date mainly from the 1950s through the 1970s. The ric rac is usually No. 3 or No. 5, in colours that match the clip base—pastel pink, mint green, pale blue, and tortoiseshell are the most sought-after. The clip itself is often metal with a painted finish, or plastic with a tortoiseshell pattern.
Check the underside of the clip. If the ric rac is held by a single line of machine stitching, the piece is likely from the 1950s. If it is glued with visible residue, it is from the 1960s or later. Glue that has yellowed or become brittle indicates a lower-quality product that may not have survived well.
Headbands
Ric rac headbands from the 1940s and 1950s are usually made of a wide plastic or metal band with the trim wrapped around the centre section. The ric rac is sewn onto a fabric backing, which is then attached to the band. These pieces are rarer than clips and command higher prices. Look for the signature of British manufacturers such as R. H. M. & Co. or Berex on the inside of the band.
A headband with ric rac on both the top and underside is a sign of quality. Mass-produced versions from the 1970s often have trim only on the visible side.
Combs and Hair Slides
Large decorative combs from the 1940s and 1950s sometimes feature ric rac glued or stitched along the top edge. These are the most fragile ric rac products because the trim is exposed to hair oils and styling products. If you find one with intact ric rac that still feels flexible, it is a rare survivor. Synthetic ric rac on combs from the 1970s tends to be brittle and may crack if bent.
How to Date a Ric Rac Product
You can narrow down the decade of a ric rac accessory by looking at three details.
- Colour palette. 1940s pieces use muted tones—dusty pink, navy, forest green. 1950s pieces favour pastels and bright primary colours. 1960s pieces introduce orange, avocado green, and mustard yellow. 1970s pieces lean toward earth tones and browns.
- Attachment method. Stitching = 1940s–1950s. Glue = 1960s onward. Heat-sealed edges = 1980s.
- Wave consistency. Perfectly uniform waves with no irregularities = machine-made, usually post-1960. Slight variations in wave height = earlier or handmade.
If you find a piece with ric rac that has been stitched and then glued over the stitching, it is a repair, not an original feature. That is common on well-loved accessories from the 1950s that were passed down and mended.
Practical Care for Ric Rac Products
Ric rac is surprisingly durable, but it has specific vulnerabilities. The waves create crevices where dirt and hairspray accumulate. To clean a ric rac accessory without damaging it:
- For cotton ric rac: dip a soft toothbrush in lukewarm water with a drop of mild soap, gently brush the waves in one direction, then blot with a dry cloth. Let it air dry completely before storing.
- For silk ric rac: do not get it wet. Use a dry, soft brush to remove dust. If the trim is attached to a metal clip, you can carefully remove the clip from the trim and clean the metal separately.
- For synthetic ric rac: wipe with a barely damp cloth. Do not use alcohol or acetone—they will dissolve the finish.
Store ric rac accessories flat, not curled or bent. The waves can deform under pressure, especially in humid conditions. A shallow box with dividers works well. Never store ric rac products in direct sunlight; the colours fade quickly, and synthetic fibres become brittle.
If you are restoring a vintage piece, consider whether the ric rac is original. Many collectors prefer to keep original trim even if it is slightly worn, because replacement ric rac—even vintage stock—rarely matches the wave count and colour exactly. A mismatched trim reduces the value of the accessory by at least half.
Where to Find Ric Rac Products Today
British vintage fairs, estate sales, and online marketplaces are the main sources. Look for listings that mention “original ric rac” or “vintage trim” rather than “reproduction” or “vintage-style”. The price for a single ric rac hair clip in good condition ranges from £8 to £25 for common colours, and up to £60 for rare colours or mint-condition pieces from the 1940s. Headbands with intact ric rac start at £20 and can reach £150 for exceptional examples with original packaging.
When you buy online, ask the seller for a photo of the trim close-up and a measurement of the wave width. Many sellers misidentify modern zigzag trim as vintage ric rac. The modern version is usually wider (No. 5 or No. 6) and has a plastic-like sheen even when made of cotton, because it is treated with a stiffener that does not soften over time. Genuine vintage ric rac softens with age and feels more like fabric than plastic.
If you are building a collection, start with No. 3 cotton ric rac clips in pastel colours—they are the most available, the most representative of the British mid-century style, and the easiest to care for. Once you can identify the wave count and material by sight, you will spot the rare pieces that other collectors overlook.