Chrysanthemum Colours 1: A Guide to Vintage Hair Accessories

Among the many floral motifs that adorned British hair accessories in the mid-20th century, the chrysanthemum holds a special place. Unlike the delicate rose or the romantic violet, the chrysanthemum offered a fuller, more sculptural shape—a cluster of petals that could be rendered in translucent resin, glossy enamel, or even fabric. The Chrysanthemum Colours 1 series, produced in the late 1960s, brought together seven distinct shades that captured the mood of the era: rich amber, deep claret, smoky topaz, forest green, midnight blue, soft cream, and jet black. Each colour was not just a finish but a statement, carefully chosen to complement the tailored silhouettes and bold accessories of the time.

Understanding the Chrysanthemum Colours 1 Series

This collection was released as a coordinated set of hair clips and barrettes, each featuring the layered chrysanthemum blossom. The petals were moulded from a lightweight cellulose acetate, a material prized in vintage hair accessories for its ability to hold intricate detail while remaining comfortable for all-day wear. The Colours 1 designation indicates the first colour palette in what became a series of limited-edition releases. The shades were inspired by the flowers of a British autumn garden, but with a vividness that suited the fashion of the period—think of the saturated hues of a Biba makeup counter or the stained glass of a 1960s cathedral.

The Seven Colours: A Closer Look

Each colour in the Chrysanthemum Colours 1 set has its own character. Here is a breakdown of the original palette:

• Amber: A warm, translucent honey tone that catches the light. Ideal for fair or silver hair, it adds a golden glow without overpowering.
• Claret: A deep, jewel-like red with hints of purple. This shade pairs beautifully with navy or charcoal wool coats.
• Smoky Topaz: A muted brownish-gold with a hint of green. It is the most versatile of the set, blending seamlessly with tweed and earth tones.
• Forest Green: A rich, opaque green that recalls the deep woods of the Lake District. It works well with autumnal plaids and mustard yellow.
• Midnight Blue: Almost black, but with a subtle blue undertone visible in sunlight. A sophisticated choice for evening events.
• Cream: A soft, off-white with a satin finish. Perfect for bridal accessories or summer garden parties.
• Jet Black: A glossy, opaque black that provides high contrast against lighter hair. It was often used as a base for adding small rhinestones or gold accents.

Each clip measures approximately 4 cm across, making them substantial enough to hold a section of hair but not so large as to overwhelm. The reverse side features a sprung metal clasp, a hallmark of quality British manufacture from the 1960s.

How to Style Chrysanthemum Colours 1 Accessories Today

These vintage pieces are surprisingly adaptable to modern wardrobes. The key is to treat them as a focal point rather than a background detail. For a daytime look, clip a single amber or cream chrysanthemum into a low side bun or a half-up twist. The resin catches the light as you move, adding a touch of warmth to a simple cashmere jumper and jeans. For evenings, the claret or midnight blue versions can be pinned into a sleek chignon or worn at the nape of the neck. Do not hesitate to mix two colours from the set—say, claret and smoky topaz—on opposite sides of the head for a balanced, asymmetrical effect.

Identifying an Authentic Chrysanthemum Colours 1 Piece

Because the series was popular, reproductions and later reissues exist. To verify authenticity, examine the back of the clip. The original Chrysanthemum Colours 1 pieces have a small embossed mark reading “UK” followed by a two-digit year code (e.g., “UK 68”). The metal clasp should be a bronze-coloured spring, not a silver or nickel one. The resin should feel smooth and slightly warm to the touch, with no sharp seams along the petal edges. For a deeper dive into the broader world of flower-shaped hair clips from this era, our guide to The Asta Flower Hair Clip: A Collector's Guide to Colours, Care, and Styling offers additional insights into dating and collecting similar pieces.

Caring for Your Chrysanthemum Colours 1 Accessories

Cellulose acetate is durable but sensitive to heat and moisture. Never store these clips in direct sunlight or near a radiator, as the resin can warp or fade. To clean, gently wipe with a soft, dry cloth. If the clasp becomes stiff, apply a tiny drop of sewing machine oil to the hinge—do not use WD-40, as it can damage the resin. Avoid exposing the clips to hairspray or perfume; if you do apply these products, wait until they are fully dry before inserting the clip. With proper care, these accessories can last another fifty years.

Collecting and Pairing with Other Vintage Colours

The Chrysanthemum Colours 1 set was designed to coordinate with other accessory lines of the period. For instance, the jet black clip shares its finish with the Bertha Hair Accessory Colours, meaning you can layer a Bertha headband with a chrysanthemum clip for a cohesive vintage look. The cream shade also echoes the ivory tones found in the Buttercups Midi Colors 10 set, allowing for subtle mixing across collections. When building a vintage hair accessory wardrobe, consider starting with one or two pieces from this series in your most-worn colours—they are the foundation upon which more elaborate combinations can be built.

If you find a piece without its original packaging, check the colour against the descriptions above. The claret should be a deep raspberry, not a bright cherry, and the amber should be clear, not cloudy. A genuine Chrysanthemum Colours 1 clip in forest green will have a distinct olive undertone that sets it apart from later, brighter greens. Once you have identified your piece, wear it with confidence—it carries the spirit of a time when accessories were made to last and to express.