A Picture Diary of Vintage Hair Accessories: The Paw Edition

The first time I held a 1920s tortoiseshell comb carved into the shape of a leaping greyhound, I understood the phrase “what goes around comes around” in a tactile way. That comb, its amber patina catching the morning light, had been made nearly a hundred years before by a small workshop in Birmingham. The same motifs—animals, paws, claws—that had once adorned the hair of flappers and Edwardian ladies were now reappearing on modern catwalk clips. The difference? The vintage pieces carry a weight of craftsmanship that few contemporary reproductions can match.

This edition of our picture diary is dedicated to the animal-inspired accessories that have crept back into our collections. Not the literal animal prints (though those have their place), but the sculptural, the whimsical, the quietly ferocious. Think of a silver fox-head slide, a celluloid rabbit clip, a tortoiseshell paw comb. Each piece tells a story of material, technique, and the cyclical nature of style.

Why the Paw? A Brief History of Animal Motifs in Hair Accessories

Animal motifs in British hair accessories date back to the Victorian era, when sentimental jewellery often featured dogs, birds, and horses. But it was the Art Deco period that truly embraced the animal form as a design element. Cartier’s famous panther brooches may have been the high-jewellery exemplars, but the same love for streamlined, stylised creatures trickled down into hair accessories. Combs and slides were carved from natural materials—tortoiseshell, bone, horn—and shaped into graceful animal silhouettes. The “paw” motif, specifically, was a favourite: a comb with a single paw at the top, or a pair of clasped paws, symbolising loyalty or a playful grip on the hair.

During the 1930s and 1940s, bakelite and other early plastics allowed for mass production of animal-themed clips. A popular design was the “Scottie dog” clip, a pair of black bakelite Scottish terriers facing each other, often used to hold a scarf or a hair slide. These were affordable, cheerful, and have become highly collectible today. The 1950s saw a return to more naturalistic shapes, but with a softer, more romantic feel—a rabbit’s head in pearlescent resin, a cat’s face in gilt metal. By the 1960s, animal motifs had become quirky and colourful, with Mod-inspired fish and bird clips in bright cellulose acetate.

And then, for a few decades, they largely vanished. The 1980s and 1990s favoured big, abstract shapes and logos. But the 2010s brought a revival, and now we see a new generation of collectors hunting for vintage animal clips. The “paw edition” of our picture diary celebrates this revival.

Materials and Techniques: What Makes a Vintage Paw Clip Special

To appreciate these accessories, you need to understand the materials. Here are the most common ones you’ll encounter when searching for animal-motif vintage hair pieces:

• Tortoiseshell – Not a true shell, but the carapace of the hawksbill turtle. Genuine tortoiseshell has a distinctive mottled amber and brown pattern. It was used for combs, slides, and hairpins from the 19th century until the 1970s, when trade bans made it rare. Today, vintage tortoiseshell pieces are prized for their warmth and ability to be carved into fine details, like a cat’s whiskers or a dog’s ear. Always check for a seam or a “peel” line—natural tortoiseshell is made from layers, unlike plastic imitations.
• Bakelite – The first fully synthetic plastic, popular from the 1920s to the 1940s. Bakelite animal clips are often hefty, with a glossy finish. They come in deep browns, greens, reds, and even ivory. A simple test for genuine bakelite: rub the piece vigorously with a soft cloth; if it smells of formaldehyde, it’s the real thing. Many bakelite clips feature carved paw prints or stylised animal heads.
• Celluloid – Lighter and more colourful than bakelite, celluloid was used extensively for hair accessories in the early 20th century. It can mimic tortoiseshell, ivory, and coral, but also comes in bright pastels. Celluloid animal clips are often more fragile; they can yellow with age and are highly flammable. Store them away from direct sunlight and heat.
• Silver and Gilt Metal – Sterling silver or silver-plated clips with animal motifs were common in the Edwardian and Art Nouveau periods. Look for hallmarks on the back. The metalwork often features delicate chasing or repoussé—a technique where the design is hammered from the reverse side. A fox or a squirrel climbing a comb is a classic motif.
• French Ivory and Imitation Horn – These are trade names for early plastics designed to look like natural ivory or horn. They were used for more affordable hair slides. The material is often a creamy white with subtle grain lines. Animal motifs on these are typically simpler, like a raised paw or a silhouette.

Cultivating Your Collection: What to Look For

If you’re starting a “paw edition” collection, think about the story you want to tell. A curated set might focus on one animal—say, cats through the decades. Or you could collect by material: a single tortoiseshell paw comb, a bakelite Scottie dog clip, a celluloid rabbit clip, a silver fox-head slide. The key is condition. Because these pieces are often small, damage can be hard to see in online photos. Check for cracks, chips, missing prongs on combs, and metal fatigue on spring clips. A patina of age is fine—even desirable—but structural integrity matters.

One common mistake is to assume that all animal clips are from the same era. The proportions and styling give clues. A realistic, detailed dog’s head with a thick bakelite construction is likely 1930s. A cute, simplified cat with large eyes in colourful plastic is probably 1960s. A minimalist paw print in silver? That could be 1940s or even 1970s. Learn to read the silhouette.

For a practical guide on building a wardrobe of heirloom pieces, including how to assess condition, I recommend our earlier post on Timeless Chic Circa Vintage: Building a Heirloom Hair Accessory Wardrobe. That article covers the basics of material integrity and storage, which is especially important for fragile celluloid and tortoiseshell.

Styling the Paw Edition Today

How do you wear a vintage animal clip without looking like you’re in costume? The trick is contrast. A sleek, modern outfit—a simple silk blouse, tailored trousers, a cashmere sweater—gives the vintage accessory a frame. The animal motif becomes a conversation piece, not a theme. For example, a single tortoiseshell paw comb worn low on a side bun adds a touch of whimsy to a professional look. A pair of bakelite Scottie dog clips can hold back the sides of a loose braid, perfect for a weekend market visit.

Another approach is to group them. Take three small celluloid animal clips—a rabbit, a cat, a bird—and clip them along a half-up, half-down hairstyle. The colours should relate to each other; pastel celluloid works well together. Avoid mixing too many eras or materials in one hairstyle unless you’re intentionally going for a “cabinet of curiosities” look.

One of the most charming combinations I’ve seen is a 1950s silver fox-head slide paired with a modern black velvet ribbon. The ribbon is tied in a small bow at the base of a ponytail, and the slide secures the ribbon to the hair. The fox head peeks out from the bow. It’s subtle, elegant, and entirely wearable.

For those who love a more daring statement, a large celluloid or bakelite clip with a pronounced animal shape (like a 1930s panther profile) can be worn as a focal point on a top knot. Keep the rest of the hair simple and the outfit monochrome. The clip will do the talking.

If you’ve ever wondered about the value of investing in a single high-quality vintage piece versus a handful of cheaper modern ones, the essay on The Strawberry Budget: What a Vintage Hair Clip Taught Me About Value offers a personal reflection on that exact dilemma. It’s a reminder that the best collections are built slowly, with intention.

Care and Keeping of Your Animal Motif Treasures

Vintage hair accessories, especially those made of natural materials, need gentle care. Tortoiseshell should be kept away from extreme heat and dryness; it can crack. A light wipe with a soft, damp cloth is enough to clean it. Never soak it. Bakelite can be polished with a specialised plastic polish, but test an inconspicuous area first. Celluloid is the most delicate: it can shrink, warp, or even decompose if stored in a humid environment. Keep it in a cool, dry box, away from other plastics, and separate pieces with acid-free tissue paper. Silver pieces should be stored in anti-tarnish cloth or bags.

For metal clips, check the spring mechanism. If it’s stiff, a drop of sewing machine oil on the hinge can work wonders. But be careful—oil can stain hair. Apply it sparingly, then wipe away any excess. Never force a stuck clip; you can break the metal. Instead, gently wiggle it while applying a small amount of heat from a hairdryer on low setting to loosen any gunk.

When wearing a vintage clip, avoid hair products that contain alcohol or strong solvents. They can damage the finish. It’s also wise to avoid wearing delicate pieces during heavy rain or humidity—celluloid and tortoiseshell are sensitive to moisture.

One final tip: if you find a vintage paw clip that has lost its spring or has a broken prong, don’t discard it. A skilled jeweller or a restorer who specialises in vintage accessories can often repair it. The cost may be worth it for a rare piece. I once had a 1920s tortoiseshell paw comb repaired by a jeweller in London who used traditional shell-gluing techniques. The comb now sits in my collection, worn once a year on a special occasion. It’s a reminder that these objects were made to last, and with care, they can last another century.