The Store P617 Spring Bloom Hair Clip: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Enamel
The small enamel petals of the Store P617 Spring Bloom hair clip catch the light in a way that feels almost alive. Unlike the later plastic flowers of the 1970s, these clips rely on a layered construction: a thin brass base, hand-painted enamel in soft pinks and whites, and a delicate spring mechanism that opens and closes the clip with a gentle snap. The effect is not gaudy – it is restrained, almost botanical, as if a single blossom from a cottage garden had been pressed into service as a hair accessory.
Spring Bloom clips, of which the P617 is a particularly well-preserved example, emerged from British costume jewellery workshops in the late 1950s. They were sold in department stores like Liberty and John Lewis, often alongside matching brooches or earrings. The name “Spring Bloom” was not a brand but a descriptive term used by several manufacturers; the P617 designation comes from the Maison Archives inventory system, which catalogues pieces by shape, colour, and year of production. For collectors, the P617 is prized for its intact enamel – chipping is common – and its original spring tension, which allows the clip to hold securely without pulling hair.
Anatomy of a Spring Bloom: Materials and Construction
Understanding what makes a P617 Spring Bloom clip authentic begins with its materials. The base is a thin but sturdy brass stamping, typically 0.8 mm thick, which gives the clip its shape without adding weight. Over this, a layer of enamel is applied by hand – a technique known as cloisonné in fine jewellery, but here executed as a simpler painted enamel (often called “cold enamel” in the trade). The colour palette is limited: pale rose, creamy white, leaf green, and occasionally a soft yellow for the centre stamens. The reverse side is left uncoated, revealing the brass and the tiny spring housing.
The spring mechanism itself is a folded steel wire, riveted to the lower jaw of the clip. Over time, these springs can lose tension or become brittle. A functional P617 will open smoothly and close with a firm click. If the clip feels loose, it may still be wearable with careful positioning, but it is a sign that professional repair might be needed. The teeth are small and rounded, designed to grip fine to medium hair without snagging.
One detail that separates the P617 from later reproductions is the finish of the enamel. Genuine vintage pieces have a subtle depth – the hand-painting leaves tiny brush marks and slight variations in colour density. Reproductions often use a single, flat coat of paint that looks uniform under a magnifying glass.
Identifying the P617 Spring Bloom Among Other Vintage Floral Clips
Several floral hair clips from the same period share a similar aesthetic, but the P617 has distinct markers. The flower is a five-petal bloom, roughly 3 cm in diameter, with a central domed stamen. The petals are each separated by a thin line of bare metal, a design choice that prevents the enamel from cracking across the entire flower when the clip is bent. The spring housing is rectangular, not round, and the clip’s jaw is slightly curved to follow the contour of the head.
Compare this to the P615 Meadow Hair Bow, which uses a different clip shape and a ribbon-like motif. The Spring Bloom is purely floral, with no geometric or abstract elements. For collectors building a set, the P617 is often paired with a smaller leaf clip (sometimes designated P618) that was sold as a matching set. That companion piece is rare – most surviving examples are single clips, as the leaf was more easily lost.
When examining a potential purchase, check the back of the clip for any stamp or hallmark. The P617 rarely carries a maker’s mark; instead, you may find a tiny number scratched into the brass – usually a quality control notation from the workshop. The absence of a mark does not indicate a fake, but the presence of a modern “Made in China” stamp is a clear red flag.
Styling a Vintage Spring Bloom Clip with a Modern Wardrobe
The biggest hesitation collectors voice is whether a floral clip from the 1950s can look current without feeling costume-y. The answer is yes, if you treat the clip as a focal point rather than an accent. Here are three ways to wear the P617 Spring Bloom that suit a range of British wardrobes:
- Low bun with a side sweep: Gather hair into a low, loose bun at the nape of the neck, leaving a few strands free. Slide the clip into the side of the bun, angled upward. The soft petals break up the severity of a sleek bun, and the enamel adds a hint of colour against darker hair.
- Half-up, half-down with a centre part: This style works particularly well with medium-length hair. Clip the Spring Bloom just above the ear on one side, letting the rest of the hair fall naturally. The contrast between the structured clip and loose waves creates a romantic, effortless look.
- French twist or chignon: For evening or formal occasions, a French twist provides a stable base. Position the clip at the top of the twist, where the hair folds over. The clip’s small size means it won’t overwhelm the silhouette, and the spring mechanism ensures it stays put even through a dance.
When choosing clothing, let the clip be the only floral element. A solid-colour dress or blouse – navy, camel, forest green – allows the pink and white petals to stand out. Avoid mixing with bold prints or other floral accessories, as the clip’s charm relies on its quiet presence.
Bereit for Care: Keeping the Spring Bloom’s Petals Intact
Vintage enamel is surprisingly durable but sensitive to three things: moisture, heat, and impact. The P617 Spring Bloom clip should never be worn while swimming, exercising, or in heavy rain. Water can seep under the enamel and cause it to lift from the brass. Heat – from a hairdryer or a curling iron – can make the enamel expand and crack. Impact is the most obvious risk: a drop onto a hard floor can shatter the petals.
For storage, keep the clip in a soft pouch or a lined jewellery box, separate from other metal accessories that might scratch the enamel. The spring mechanism should be stored in the open position to avoid metal fatigue – closed storage puts constant pressure on the spring wire. A simple way to do this is to clip the Spring Bloom onto a piece of felt or a folded ribbon inside the box.
Cleaning is minimal. A soft, dry cotton cloth can remove dust. If the clip has accumulated grime in the crevices, use a barely damp cotton bud and dry immediately. Never use polishing compounds, alcohol, or ultrasonic cleaners – they will strip the enamel or dull the brass.
For those who also collect other vintage hair accessories, the same care principles apply to many pieces. The How to Store a Vintage Velvet Crown Headband (P300) guide offers useful advice on protecting soft materials, though the Spring Bloom’s enamel requires its own routine.
Why the P617 Spring Bloom Deserves a Place in Your Collection
Collecting vintage hair clips is often about finding small, wearable pieces of history. The P617 is not a rare museum piece – it was produced in the thousands – but it is a survivor. Each clip carries the marks of its original owner: a tiny scratch on the brass, a slight fading of the pink enamel, a spring that has been opened and closed hundreds of times. These are not flaws; they are the evidence of a life lived.
In a world of fast fashion and mass-produced plastic, a Spring Bloom clip reminds us that beautiful things can be made with care, worn with joy, and passed on to the next generation. The P617’s enamel flowers will never wilt, and its spring will continue to hold fast for decades to come – provided we treat it with the same respect its makers once gave it.
Start by checking the spring tension. If it opens smoothly and closes with a satisfying click, you have a clip that is still ready to be worn. Choose a simple outfit, sweep your hair to one side, and let the Spring Bloom do what it was made to do – bring a little garden into everyday life.