Collections Collars: A Collector’s Guide to Vintage Hair Collars and Circular Headpieces
Among the lesser-known treasures of British vintage hair fashion, the hair collar—a circular or semi-circular accessory designed to encircle the crown, nape, or forehead—offers a uniquely structured elegance. Unlike the ubiquitous clip or comb, a hair collar is a statement piece that frames the entire head. One of the finest examples from the Edwardian era is a silver filigree collar, hand-stamped in Birmingham around 1905, its openwork pattern of interlocking vines and tiny flowers. Such collars were often pinned or sewn onto a velvet band, then positioned at the back of a Gibson Girl updo, creating a halo of light metal against dark hair. Understanding the construction, materials, and cultural context of these pieces is essential for any serious collector.
What Exactly Is a Hair Collar?
In the vocabulary of vintage hair accessories, a ‘collar’ refers to a circular or partial-circular ornament that wraps around the head—either across the crown (like a tiara without the points), around the base of a chignon, or as a bandeau across the forehead. The term distinguishes it from barrettes, which clip individual sections, and combs, which anchor into the hair. Hair collars were particularly popular in the late Victorian, Edwardian, and 1920s periods, when elaborate hairstyles demanded structural adornment.
Historical Evolution: From Victorian to Art Deco
Victorian Era (1837–1901)
The earliest hair collars were often made of carved tortoiseshell or dark horn, sometimes inlaid with mother-of-pearl. These were worn as part of a mourning ensemble or as day jewellery. A typical Victorian hair collar is a semi-circular crescent, 10–15 cm wide, with a central pin or comb at each end to secure it under a bun. The surface might be engraved with floral motifs or geometric patterns. Genuine tortoiseshell (from the hawksbill sea turtle) was prized for its translucence and ability to be heated and reshaped. Today, collectors seek out these pieces for their warmth and patina, though ethical considerations have led many to favour celluloid or bakelite imitations from the same period.
Edwardian and Belle Époque (1901–1910)
The Edwardian era saw a shift towards lighter, more delicate metalwork. Silver, gold-filled, and sometimes platinum were used to create filigree collars, often set with seed pearls or paste stones. The most iconic silhouette is the ‘Gibson Girl’ collar: a wide, openwork band that sits at the back of the head, just above the nape, complementing the voluminous pompadour hairstyle. These collars were frequently made by Birmingham silversmiths and bear hallmarks that can be dated. Collectors should look for intact hallmarks, as they add provenance and value.
1920s and the Bandeau Craze
The 1920s revolutionised hair accessories. The flapper’s bob required a new kind of collar—the bandeau. These were narrow, flexible bands that wrapped around the forehead, often made of linked metal plaques, glass beads, or celluloid. The Art Deco style favoured strong geometric shapes: chevrons, zigzags, and stylised flowers. One of the most collectible types is the ‘Egyptian revival’ bandeau, featuring scarab beetles and lotus motifs, inspired by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922. These collars are usually lightweight, with a thin wire or elastic closure at the back.
Materials and Techniques: What to Look For
- Tortoiseshell (real and faux): Real tortoiseshell has a mottled amber and brown pattern; faux examples in celluloid or bakelite often have a more uniform colour and a distinct chemical smell when rubbed. Both are highly collectible, but celluloid can be brittle—check for cracks.
- Silver and gold-filled: Hallmarked pieces are desirable. Unmarked silver may be of lesser quality. Look for stamped marks (e.g., lion passant for sterling) on the reverse.
- Celluloid and bakelite: These early plastics allowed for mass production of colourful collars. Bakelite (phenolic resin) is denser and can be polished to a high gloss; celluloid is lighter and more prone to warping. Test for bakelite with a drop of Simichrome polish—it leaves a yellow residue on a cotton swab.
- Jet: A hard, black fossilised wood, especially popular in the Victorian era. Whitby jet is the most famous. Hair collars in jet are rare; they were often carved into floral or leaf patterns and worn for mourning.
Iconic Silhouettes of the 20th Century
| Era | Silhouette | Typical Hair Style |
|---|---|---|
| 1900s | Back-of-head filigree crescent | Gibson Girl pompadour |
| 1920s | Forehead bandeau, often geometric | Bob or finger waves |
| 1950s | Circular comb-crown (sometimes called a ‘tiara collar’) | Bouffant or French twist |
| 1970s | Wide fabric headband with metal detail | Long centre-parted hair |
Styling Vintage Hair Collars with a Modern Wardrobe
The key to integrating a vintage hair collar into contemporary fashion is contrast. A delicate Edwardian silver filigree collar looks striking against a simple cashmere jumper and tailored trousers. A 1920s jet bandeau can be worn with a modern silk slip dress for an evening event. For everyday wear, choose a smaller, more understated collar—perhaps a slim celluloid band in tortoiseshell—and wear it as a headband, allowing a few strands of hair to fall forward for a relaxed look. Avoid trying to match the collar to an exact historical outfit; instead, let the accessory be the focal point of an otherwise minimal ensemble.
Bearing in Mind: Care and Storage
Vintage hair collars require gentle handling. Metal collars can tarnish; store them in anti-tarnish cloth pouches or with silica gel packets. Celluloid and bakelite should be kept away from direct sunlight and heat, as they can discolour or warp. For tortoiseshell, occasional application of a very small amount of natural oil (almond or jojoba) can help maintain its lustre—but test on an inconspicuous area first. Never immerse a hair collar in water or cleaning solution; wipe with a soft, dry cloth instead. If a metal collar has a broken hinge or missing clasp, take it to a jeweller who specialises in antique repairs. Many small repairs, such as restringing beads or re-soldering a filigree loop, are surprisingly affordable and can bring a collar back to wearable condition.
Finding and Authenticating Your Collection
Hair collars turn up at British flea markets, antique fairs, and online auctions. Look for dealers who specialise in vintage jewellery or hair accessories—they can often provide a rough date. When evaluating a piece, check the flexibility: a metal collar that is too stiff may have been damaged or is a later reproduction. Examine the back for marks, age-appropriate patina, and signs of original workmanship (e.g., hand-filed edges vs. machine-cut). For fans of the darker side of fashion, a Victorian jet collar with a carved mourning inscription is a poignant find. Remember that hair collars were often made in matched sets with combs or earrings; if you find a complete set, it’s a rare acquisition.
For the collector who dreams of a complete Edwardian vanity set, a hair collar remains the centrepiece. Next time you uncover a silver filigree crescent at a dusty stall, take a moment to examine how the light catches each tiny curl of metal. That hallmark on the underside might be the key to a story you can wear.