The Store p546 Bertha Hairclip: A Mid-Century British Accessory with Textile Roots
The Store p546 Bertha hairclip takes its design cues from textile history rather than celestial motifs. While many mid-century British hair accessories leaned on star and moon shapes, the Bertha references the scalloped lace collars that gave it its name. Its honey-toned tortoiseshell celluloid and layered scallops mimic the drape of a Victorian bertha collar, making it a piece that rewards close inspection.
The Bertha Name and Its Fashion Origins
The term "Bertha" in fashion history refers to a deep, often scalloped collar of lace or embroidered fabric, popular in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. By the 1950s, the name had been borrowed by accessory designers to describe a hairclip with a similar scalloped or undulating edge. The Store p546 Bertha hairclip embodies this borrowing: its curved profile and layered scallops mimic the gentle drape of a lace collar, while the honey-toned tortoiseshell celluloid captures the warmth of aged ivory or shell. This cross-pollination between garment and accessory is a hallmark of mid-century British design, where milliners and jewellery makers often looked to broader fashion trends for inspiration.
Design and Materials
The Bertha clip is a spring-loaded barrette, measuring approximately 6.5 cm in length and 2 cm at its widest point — a generous size that holds a substantial section of hair without feeling heavy. The body is moulded from honey tortoiseshell celluloid, a material prized in the 1950s for its lightness and ability to mimic natural tortoiseshell at a fraction of the cost. The colour ranges from a translucent amber to a deeper cognac, often with subtle mottling that makes each example unique.
The metal spring mechanism is typically nickel-plated brass, with a small circular hinge at the centre and a ridged grip on the inner jaw to prevent slipping. What distinguishes the Bertha from other barrettes of the period is its decorative top edge: a series of five shallow scallops, each outlined with a fine incised line that catches the light. Some examples also feature a faint embossed pattern of tiny leaves or dots along the scallops, though this detail can wear away with use.
- Material: Honey tortoiseshell celluloid (amber to cognac tones)
- Metal: Nickel-plated brass spring mechanism
- Dimensions: 6.5 cm length, 2 cm width
- Closure: Spring-loaded jaw with ridged grip
- Edge detail: Five scallops with incised outline
Dating the Clip
Celluloid production for hair accessories in Britain peaked between the late 1940s and early 1960s, after which it was gradually replaced by more stable plastics such as cellulose acetate and later polystyrene. The Bertha clip exhibits several hallmarks of early 1950s manufacture: the use of a single-piece mould for the body (rather than two halves glued together), the absence of a maker's mark (common for smaller manufacturers who sold wholesale to department stores), and the slightly rough texture on the underside where the metal spring is inserted. The spring itself is a simple two-prong design, not the more complex multi-prong mechanisms seen in later decades.
If you find a Bertha with a very glossy surface and no signs of minor crazing (fine cracks that appear as celluloid ages), it may be a later reproduction. Genuine mid-century celluloid almost always shows some degree of micro-crazing under magnification, particularly around the hinge area where stress is greatest.
Styling the Bertha Hairclip
The Bertha's warm tortoiseshell tones make it remarkably versatile. It sits comfortably with both cool and warm colour palettes, and its scalloped edge adds a touch of femininity without being fussy. For a modern interpretation, try securing a low side-swept bun with the Bertha placed horizontally just above the nape of the neck — the scallops will echo the curve of the jawline. Alternatively, use it to anchor a deep side part, letting the clip peek through the top layer of hair for a subtle vintage note.
Unlike the playful feline motif of the Store p234 Maison Archives Kitty K Clip, the Bertha clip takes its inspiration from textile design and pairs beautifully with soft knits, blouses with Peter Pan collars, or a simple silk scarf. For evening, consider wearing two Bertha clips symmetrically on either side of a low chignon — a look that echoes the paired combs of the Edwardian era but with mid-century lightness.
Caring for Your Bertha
Celluloid is a semi-synthetic material derived from camphor and nitrocellulose. It is flammable and can degrade if exposed to high heat or direct sunlight for prolonged periods. Store the Bertha clip away from radiators and windows, ideally in a fabric-lined box or a drawer with other vintage accessories. Avoid contact with acetone, alcohol, or perfume, as these can dissolve the surface or cause clouding.
To clean the clip, gently wipe with a soft, dry cloth. For stubborn grime, use a barely damp cloth with a drop of mild soap, then dry immediately. Never soak celluloid. If the spring mechanism becomes stiff, a tiny drop of sewing machine oil on the hinge pin can restore smooth movement — but apply it sparingly and wipe away any excess.
For those who appreciate a more structured barrette, the Sukie Barrette: A Quiet Classic from MaisonArchives offers a contrasting rectangular silhouette that complements the Bertha's curves when worn together in a layered look.
What to Look For When Collecting
Because the Bertha was not a high-profile design (no designer stamp, no advertising campaign), surviving examples tend to be well-worn but honest. Prioritise clips with intact scallops — a chipped or broken edge is difficult to restore due to celluloid's brittleness. Check that the spring closes firmly and does not gap at the hinge. Slight colour variation between the top and underside is normal, as the moulded surface ages differently from the interior. A patina of small scratches on the top is also acceptable; it adds character and confirms age.
If you encounter a Bertha with a very uniform colour and no visible mould lines, it may be a modern cast resin piece rather than vintage celluloid. Genuine mid-century clips almost always have a faint seam line running down the sides from the two-part mould. Turning the clip sideways under a bright light will reveal this seam — a reassuring sign of authenticity.
The Bertha clip’s honey tortoiseshell celluloid and incised scallops are hallmarks of early 1950s manufacture. If you come across one with faint leaf embossing along the scallops, you’ve found a rarer variant. Either way, each clip carries a trace of the woman who wore it — a quiet connection to mid-century daily life.