The p509 Eloise Hairclip: A Mid-Century British Costume Jewellery Treasure

If you have ever held a mid-century British metal barrette in your hands, you know the weight of quality. The p509 Eloise hairclip is one such piece—a barrette that stands apart from its tortoiseshell counterpart (the p498 Eloise) by its brass base and hand-painted enamel. Collectors often ask how to tell them apart: the p509 has a subtle maker’s mark on the inner spring, while the p498 is entirely resin. This small detail makes all the difference when dating a find.

A Mid-Century British Costume Jewellery Treasure

The p509 Eloise belongs to a lineage of hair accessories produced in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter during the 1950s and early 1960s. British costume jewellery houses of that era—such as Sphinx, Corocraft, and Maison Archives—experimented with combining base metals with coloured enamels to create affordable luxury for the everyday woman. The Eloise clip features a scalloped brass frame, approximately 7 cm long, with a central oval panel of hand-painted enamel in shades of pastel pink, mint green, and cream. Tiny rhinestones accent the edges, catching the light without overwhelming the delicate floral motif.

The name “Eloise” appears to have been a model designation used across several product codes. While the p498 variant used tortoiseshell acetate, the p509 was produced in a limited run of metal barrettes. The metal version is rarer today because the enamel was prone to chipping, and many were discarded or recycled during wartime metal drives. Surviving examples often show a gentle patina on the brass, which collectors prize as a mark of authenticity.

Materials and Techniques

Understanding how the p509 was made helps you appreciate its durability—and its fragility. The base is stamped from a single sheet of brass, then shaped and polished. The enamel was applied by hand using a sable brush, layer by layer, and fired in a kiln at around 800°C. This vitreous enamel (not the cold-painted type) gives the clip its glossy, glass-like finish. The spring mechanism is a simple steel coil, often plated with nickel to resist rust. Over time, the spring may lose tension, but it can be gently adjusted with small pliers—a repair that many vintage restorers offer.

• Base metal: Brass, often with a light gold wash
• Enamel type: Vitreous (fired) enamel – check for tiny bubbles under magnification
• Stone accents: Clear or pale pink rhinestones, foil-backed for extra sparkle
• Spring: Nickel-plated steel, single-coil tension
• Maker’s mark: A tiny “MA” or “M.A.” inside an oval on the inner arm

The Cult Silhouette: Structured Barrette for the Beehive Era

The p509 Eloise was designed for a very specific hairstyle: the bouffant and its taller cousin, the beehive. In mid-1950s Britain, women used backcombing, hairspray, and padding to create volume at the crown. A long, sturdy barrette like the Eloise could be clipped horizontally across the top of the hair, anchoring the teased section and adding a decorative focal point. The metal construction provided enough grip to hold even the thickest hair, while the enamel added a feminine touch that softened the architectural silhouette.

This style of barrette was often worn in pairs—one on each side of a centre part—or as a single statement piece at the back of the head. Contemporary magazines like Woman’s Own and Vogue Britain featured similar clips in their “Accessories for the New Look” spreads. The Eloise’s pastel palette made it particularly popular for spring and summer weddings, christenings, and garden parties.

How to Spot an Authentic p509 Eloise

With the rise of vintage-inspired reproductions, knowing the hallmarks of an original p509 is essential. Look for these signs:

1. Weight: Genuine brass clips feel heavier than modern zinc alloy or plastic copies.
2. Enamel flaws: Small chips or crazing are common and actually confirm age—perfect enamel is often a sign of a recent replica.
3. Spring mechanism: Original springs are not visible when the clip is closed; they sit inside a recessed channel.
4. Patina: The brass should have a warm, slightly darkened tone, not a bright polished gold.
5. Maker’s mark: As mentioned, “MA” or “M.A.” inside an oval. Some later runs also have a “9” or “9ct” stamp, though this is rare.

If you are comparing this clip to other mid-century pieces, you may find similarities with the The Kitty K Hair Clip: A 1960s British Vintage Original, which also uses a metal frame but features a different enamel pattern. Both clips share the same spring construction, making them cousins in the Maison Archives family.

Styling the p509 Eloise with a Modern Wardrobe

One of the joys of vintage accessories is their ability to bridge eras. The p509 Eloise may be a mid-century artefact, but it pairs beautifully with contemporary clothing. Here are three ways to wear it without looking costumed:

• With a simple ponytail: Slide the barrette vertically over the elastic band of a low ponytail. The enamel adds a pop of colour to a neutral outfit—think a cream sweater and dark jeans.
• As a side-swept accent: Clip it just above the ear on one side, letting a few strands of hair fall forward. This works especially well with a sleek bob or lob.
• On a half-up style: Gather the top section of hair and secure it with the Eloise at the crown. The pastel tones complement a floral dress or a linen blazer.

For a more formal occasion, consider layering the Eloise with a velvet headband. The contrast between the hard enamel and soft velvet creates a rich textural interplay. A similar approach is seen in the The Georgia Pearl Comb: A Vintage Hair Accessory Worth Discovering, which also blends metal and organic elements.

Care and Preservation of Your p509 Eloise

Because the enamel is fired glass, it can crack if dropped or exposed to sudden temperature changes. To keep your clip in good condition:

• Avoid water: Do not wear the clip while swimming, showering, or in heavy rain. Moisture can seep under the enamel and lift it from the brass.
• Store separately: Keep the clip in a soft pouch or a compartmented jewellery box to prevent scratches from other metal pieces.
• Clean gently: Use a soft, dry cloth to remove dust. If the brass tarnishes, a tiny amount of non-abrasive metal polish on the frame only—never on the enamel.
• Spring care: If the clip becomes loose, open it fully and gently bend the spring arm outward by 1–2 mm using needle-nose pliers. Test on a small section of hair first.

One common mistake is trying to polish the enamel with a silver cloth. This can leave micro-scratches that dull the gloss. Instead, simply wipe the enamel with a damp cotton bud and dry immediately. Over time, a light patina on the brass will develop, which many collectors find desirable—it tells the story of the clip’s journey through the decades.

The p509 Eloise hairclip is more than a vintage accessory; it is a small piece of British design history. Understanding its construction, history, and proper care means this little treasure keeps its charm for decades. Next time you come across a metal barrette with faded enamel at a flea market, you will know exactly what to look for—and how to give it a second life.