The Store p495 Rumi Tortoiseshell Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century British Barrette
The Store p495 Rumi tortoiseshell hairclip is a barrette that carries the warmth of traditional tortoiseshell patterning and the clean lines of mid-century British design. At around 8 to 10 centimetres, it’s long enough to hold a thick section of hair but not so large that it overwhelms a bob. Made from cellulose acetate or casein plastic, its amber-and-chestnut swirls mimic the long-banned hawksbill turtle shell — a material that became restricted in the 1970s. Understanding its origins, materials, and styling potential turns a simple accessory into a conversation piece.
What Makes the Store p495 Rumi Distinctive
The p495 is not a mass-produced novelty. It belongs to a lineage of British hair accessories that prioritised craftsmanship over flash. The "Rumi" designation likely references the poetic, flowing quality of its shape — think of a softened arch that follows the curve of the head rather than fighting it. Unlike many modern clips that rely on sharp angles or oversized logos, the p495 whispers its elegance through proportion and material depth.
The tortoiseshell effect is central to its appeal. True vintage tortoiseshell was made from the shell of the hawksbill sea turtle, a practice that became restricted under CITES in the 1970s. The p495, like most later examples, uses a high-quality cellulose acetate or casein plastic that mimics the rich amber-and-chestnut swirls of the original. Collectors prize these later pieces because they carry the same visual warmth without the ethical weight. The best examples show a depth of colour — almost three-dimensional — where light catches the layered browns and golds.
Materials and Construction: A Closer Look
Understanding what you are holding matters when you evaluate a p495. The clip typically measures around 8 to 10 centimetres in length — substantial enough to hold a thick section of hair, yet not so large that it overwhelms a medium-length bob. The teeth are cut with precision, and the spring mechanism should feel firm but not stiff. A well-preserved p495 opens smoothly and snaps closed with a satisfying click.
- Base material: Cellulose acetate or casein plastic, depending on the production decade. Acetate pieces tend to be lighter; casein has a slightly warmer, more buttery feel.
- Colour variation: Look for pieces with visible mottling — dark umber bleeding into lighter caramel. Uniform colour often indicates a later, lower-quality reproduction.
- Hardware: The metal spring and hinge should be brass or nickel-plated steel. Rust or verdigris suggests poor storage, and while some patina is acceptable, active corrosion weakens the clip.
- Maker's marks: Many p495 examples carry a discreet stamp on the inner arm — often "Made in England" or a small logo. Absence of a mark does not automatically mean inauthenticity, but it does make dating harder.
One helpful comparison is with the The p452 Asta Hairclip: A Collector’s Guide to a Mid-Century British Barrette, which shares a similar material philosophy but in a more angular silhouette. Where the Asta clip is crisp and architectural, the Rumi is curved and organic — a reminder that even within the same workshop, designers explored different moods.
Dating Your p495 Rumi Hairclip
Without a dated hallmark, you rely on context clues. The p495 likely emerged in the late 1950s through the 1960s, when British accessory houses experimented with synthetic tortoiseshell as a replacement for the now-restricted natural material. The style name "Rumi" suggests a mid-century fascination with Eastern poetry and philosophy — a trend that influenced fashion, interior design, and even jewellery motifs.
Key dating indicators include:
| Feature | 1950s–early 1960s | Mid 1960s–1970s |
|---|---|---|
| Colour depth | Deeper, more layered amber | Slightly lighter, more uniform |
| Weight | Heavier (casein common) | Lighter (cellulose acetate dominant) |
| Finish | High gloss, almost lacquered | Satin sheen, matte possible |
| Hinge type | Exposed brass barrel | Enclosed or nickel-plated |
If you find a p495 with a near-perfect gloss and a brass hinge, you likely have an early example. Pieces with a softer finish and lighter weight are still collectable but represent the later phase of production, when cost-saving measures began to appear.
Styling the Rumi Hairclip for Modern Wear
The beauty of the p495 is its versatility. Tortoiseshell is a neutral — it complements warm hair colours (auburn, chestnut, honey blonde) and provides a gentle contrast against cooler tones (ash blonde, silver, deep brunette). Because the clip is neither too delicate nor too bulky, it works across multiple hairstyles.
Try these approaches:
- The half-up twist: Gather the top section of hair, twist it loosely, and secure with the p495 at the crown. The tortoiseshell pattern catches the light without competing with your outfit.
- Side-swept accent: Use the clip to hold back one side of a low ponytail or a side part. This works especially well with waves or curls, where the clip becomes a subtle focal point.
- French roll anchor: For evenings, a sleek French roll pinned with the p495 at the centre creates a polished silhouette. Pair with gold earrings for a cohesive vintage feel.
If you enjoy exploring how different eras of accessories interact, the The P225 Velvet Crown Headband: A Mid-Century British Treasure offers an interesting contrast — velvet and tortoiseshell belong to different visual languages, yet both anchor a vintage-inspired wardrobe with quiet authority.
Care and Preservation
Cellulose acetate and casein are sensitive to heat and moisture. Never leave your p495 in direct sunlight for extended periods — the colour can fade or shift towards an unpleasantly orange tone. Likewise, avoid storing it in a bathroom where humidity fluctuates.
To clean the clip, wipe it gently with a soft, dry cloth. If the surface feels sticky or cloudy — a sign of plastic degradation known as "vinegar syndrome" in acetates — you can lightly buff it with a microfiber cloth. Do not use alcohol, acetone, or any solvent; these will permanently damage the finish. For stubborn grime, a barely damp cloth followed by immediate drying is acceptable.
Store the p495 in a fabric-lined box or a pouch, preferably separate from metal jewellery that could scratch it. If the spring becomes loose, a jeweller experienced with vintage hair accessories can often tighten it without replacing the original parts.
Where to Look for the p495
These clips appear in British charity shops, estate sales, and online vintage marketplaces. Because they were produced in reasonable numbers, they are not impossibly rare — but finding one in excellent condition requires patience. Key search terms include "vintage tortoiseshell barrette", "mid-century hair clip England", and "acetate hair accessory 1960s". Always ask the seller about the mechanism: a clip that does not close firmly is a repair project, not a ready-to-wear piece.
Prices vary widely. A p495 with light wear and a functional spring might cost between £15 and £35. Mint-condition examples with original packaging can reach £60 or more. If you see one with the original box or a retailer's label, it is worth the premium for the provenance alone.
If you find a p495 with a stiff spring, a drop of sewing machine oil on the hinge (applied carefully to avoid the plastic) can often restore smooth action. That small maintenance keeps a piece of mid-century design in daily use — not locked in a drawer. And when you wear it, the clip carries not just your hair but a slice of 1950s British accessory history.