The Store p401 El Poncho Beret Clip: A 1960s Hair Accessory Collectors Love
When you first pick up a Store p401 El Poncho Beret clip, the weight surprises you. Not heavy, but distinctly solid – a reassuring heft that speaks of metal alloys long out of fashion. The clip mechanism is a two-pronged spring clamp, identical in base to the one on the classic Store p135 Beret Clip, but the decorative top tells a different story. Instead of a flat felt disc or a polka-dotted dome, the p401 has a miniature beret sculpted from dense, ribbed fabric that mimics poncho texture – hence the name. That fabric isn't just glued on; it's stitched onto a metal form, a detail that sets it apart from most mass-produced hair accessories of the era.
History and provenance
Store's catalogue numbering system puts the p401 in the mid-1960s, when British women were experimenting with shorter cuts and bigger accessories. The poncho, borrowed from South American tradition, entered European fashion after Jackie Kennedy's 1962 visit to India, where she was photographed in a fringed woollen poncho. British milliners quickly adapted the woven, often checkered aesthetic into hair clips. The p401 El Poncho Beret likely came from a small Birmingham workshop that supplied high-street retailers. Its construction suggests a limited run – the fabric is a synthetic blend (viscose and nylon), chosen for holding its shape without the weight of wool.
The beret connection
Why pair a beret silhouette with poncho fabric? The answer lies in the 1964-65 trend of the "beret clip" – a hair accessory designed to mimic a Basque beret, often pinned to the side of a chignon. British ladies wore these clips even when their hair was too short for a real beret. The p401 takes that idea further by adding textural contrast: the ribbed surface gives the impression of a miniature poncho draped over a beret. A conceptual layering that still looks fresh today.
Materials and construction
The p401 consists of three parts:
- Spring clip base – stainless steel with a nickel finish, measuring 5.5 cm in length. The prongs are slightly curved to grip hair securely without pulling.
- Metal form – a stamped brass dome, roughly 3 cm in diameter, padded with a thin layer of felt before the fabric is attached.
- Fabric cover – a ribbed viscose-nylon blend, woven in a two-by-two twill pattern. Most common colours are charcoal grey, muted olive, or a deep burgundy once called “claret”. Rare variants exist in mustard yellow.
What makes the p401 prized among collectors is the stitching along the brim: a handsewn running stitch using waxed linen thread, visible up close. This was done only on early production runs. Later examples (likely from 1967 onward) use machine stitching and a thinner fabric.
Comparative rarity
While the Store p135 Beret Clip is relatively easy to find in charity shops and antique malls, the p401 appears maybe once in every two hundred beret clips. The poncho texture is less durable than felt, so many survivors show fraying or moth damage. Finding one with intact stitching and no fabric pulls is a small triumph.
Styling the p401 today
Modern wardrobes take to these clips more easily than you'd expect. The charcoal grey variant pairs nicely with a cream cashmere jumper and tailored pleated trousers – the texture echoes the weave of a scarf. For a sharper look, the claret version adds a dot of colour against a black velvet headband (see our guide on the Store p143 Beret Polka Dots for pairing ideas).
The clip works best on hair that has some grip – second-day waves, a low ponytail, or a quick twist secured with a pin. Because the prongs are strong, you can clip it directly onto a folded section of hair without extra grips. Avoid using it on silk scarves or thin turbans, as the metal edge may snag the fabric.
Care and preservation
Owning a p401 means handling it gently. Here are the key rules:
- Keep dry – the fabric cover is not waterproof. Rain or high humidity will make the viscose swell and the colour bleed. Store in a velvet pouch or a dry drawer, away from radiators.
- Clean with a soft brush – use a clean mascara wand or a fine boar-bristle brush to lift dust from the ribbed surface. Never submerge the clip in water.
- Check the spring – after decades, the spring tension may weaken. A jeweller can gently tighten the clamp by bending the prongs inward 1-2 mm. Do not attempt this at home – overbending will snap the metal.
- Store flat – hanging the clip by its fabric top can stretch the stitching. Place it fabric-side up in a small box.
Identifying authentic examples
Fakes are rare – the p401 is too obscure to attract counterfeiters – but reproductions from the 1990s do exist. Look for these marks:
- The original has a tiny “STORE” stamp on the inside of the metal base, near the hinge. It may be faint; a magnifying loupe helps.
- The fabric seam is hidden under the dome. Reproductions often have a visible seam around the edge.
- The weight: an authentic p401 feels heavier than it looks. If it's feather-light, the metal form may be aluminum or plastic – a later reproduction.
Why collect the p401?
The p401 El Poncho Beret isn't a headline piece. It won't be the most expensive item in your collection, nor the most dazzling. But it captures a specific moment when British accessory design borrowed from world textiles and adapted them to the small scale of hair ornaments. The poncho trend lasted barely three years, yet this clip preserved its texture in miniature. Wearing it today is a form of thoughtful fashion archaeology – a way to hold a fragment of 1960s material culture against your hair.
If you find one at a flea market, examine the stitching first. If the thread is intact, buy it without haggling. The p401 will never be made again, and its quiet, ribbed presence is exactly the kind of detail that makes a vintage collection feel chosen rather than crowded.