Store P347 Cowrie Puka Hair Clip: History, Identification, and Care

The first time I held a Store P347 Cowrie Puka Hair Clip, I was struck by how light it felt — barely a whisper in the palm, yet carrying the weight of decades of seaside memory. Cowrie shells have been strung, sewn, and clipped into hair across cultures for centuries, but the P347 iteration from a mid-century British accessories house represents a particular moment when the ocean's humblest treasure met the precision of modern clip engineering. It’s a piece that feels both ancient and modern — a shell that’s been worn for centuries, now clipped into hair with a precision spring mechanism. Here’s what makes it special, how to tell a real one from a fake, and how to keep it in good shape for decades.

What Is the Store P347 Cowrie Puka Hair Clip?

The Store P347 is a hair clip that combines small, naturally rounded cowrie shells — often called puka shells in the Pacific trade — with a metal spring-clip mechanism. Unlike the long, tubular puka beads used in necklaces, the P347 uses flat, oval cowrie shells with the characteristic slit opening along one side. Each shell is drilled at the centre and mounted onto a brass or silver-tone clip base, typically with a small rivet visible on the reverse. The shells are not dyed; their natural cream, ivory, and pale brown mottling is left visible, giving each clip a unique pattern.

The clip measures roughly 5 cm in length and 1.5 cm in width — compact enough to hold a section of hair at the temple or nape, yet substantial enough to anchor a half-up style. The spring mechanism is a standard alligator clip, but the shells are arranged in a staggered row of three or four, sometimes with a small spacer bead between them. This design was produced in limited runs during the 1960s and early 1970s, primarily for the British market, and has since become a sought-after piece for vintage collectors who value natural materials and understated ornament.

Origins: The Cowrie in British Adornment

Cowrie shells have been used as currency, fertility charms, and jewellery in Africa, Asia, and the Pacific for millennia. Their arrival in British fashion can be traced to the Victorian era, when travellers brought back shell necklaces from colonial outposts, and later to the 1920s, when Art Deco designers incorporated exotic natural materials into accessories. However, the specific puka style — small, polished cowries used in multiples — gained traction in the 1950s and 1960s as part of the broader tiki and surf culture influences that filtered into British youth fashion.

The Store P347 was part of a wave of shell-based accessories produced by small British manufacturers who sourced cowries from the Indian Ocean and the Philippines. Unlike the mass-produced plastic imitations that flooded the market later, the P347 used genuine, unaltered shells. Each shell was hand-selected for symmetry and drilled individually, which is why slight variations in colour and size are normal and desirable. The clip itself was manufactured in Birmingham, a historic centre of jewellery and accessory production, using a nickel-silver alloy base that was then plated with either rhodium or gold.

How to Identify an Authentic Store P347

With the rise of vintage fashion, reproductions and fakes have become common. Here is how to tell a genuine P347 from a later copy or a different model:

• Shell material: Authentic P347 shells are real cowrie — they feel slightly waxy to the touch, have a visible slit on the flat side, and show natural colour gradation from cream to brown. Fakes are made of resin or plastic and feel uniformly smooth and cold.
• Clip mechanism: The original uses a stamped metal alligator clip with a ridged grip. The hinge is riveted, not glued. Look for tiny maker's marks on the inside of the clip — often a letter and number combination such as "B6" or "M3".
• Shell arrangement: The shells on an original P347 are evenly spaced and attached with a small metal pin that passes through the centre of each shell. If the shells are glued or strung on a wire, it is not a P347.
• Weight: Real shells make the clip slightly heavier than a plastic version. A P347 weighs about 8–10 grams. Anything significantly lighter is suspect.
• Patina: Vintage examples often show a gentle yellowing of the shells and minor tarnish on the metal. This is normal and desirable. A clip that looks brand-new may be a reproduction.

Styling the P347 with a Modern Wardrobe

The P347 Cowrie Puka Hair Clip is surprisingly versatile. Its neutral, organic tones pair well with both casual and dressy outfits. Here are three ways to wear it today:

• Beachy half-up: Gather the top section of hair from temple to temple, twist loosely, and secure with the P347 at the back of the crown. This works especially well with wavy or textured hair and a linen dress or cotton shirt.
• Side accent: Clip the P347 just above the ear on one side, letting the rest of the hair fall naturally. This adds a subtle nautical touch to a minimalist outfit — think a cream sweater and tailored trousers.
• Low ponytail wrap: Use the clip to hold a small section of hair wrapped around the base of a low ponytail. The shells become a decorative band that hides the elastic. This style suits both day and evening wear.

For readers who enjoy building a cohesive vintage accessory wardrobe, the P347 pairs beautifully with other shell-based pieces. The P331 Puka Cowrie shares the same shell material but in a different format — a larger, single-shell barrette that works well for thicker hair. Together, they create a coordinated but not matching set.

Caring for Your Cowrie Shell Clip

Cowrie shells are durable but porous. They can crack if dropped on a hard floor, and they can discolour if exposed to hair products, perfumes, or excessive moisture. Follow these guidelines to keep your P347 in excellent condition:

• Clean gently: Wipe the shells with a soft, dry cloth after each wear. If they need deeper cleaning, use a cotton swab dipped in warm water with a tiny drop of mild soap. Never soak the clip or submerge the metal mechanism.
• Dry immediately: After cleaning, pat the shells dry and leave the clip open on a towel for an hour to let the hinge dry completely. Moisture trapped in the hinge can cause rust.
• Store separately: Keep the P347 in a fabric pouch or a compartmented jewellery box. Do not toss it loose into a bag where it can rub against keys or coins — the shells can scratch.
• Avoid heat and sunlight: Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can bleach the shells and make them brittle. Store in a dark, cool place.
• Check the spring: The alligator clip can lose tension over decades. If the clip no longer holds securely, a jeweller can gently bend the metal tabs to restore grip. Do not attempt this yourself with pliers — you may snap the hinge.

Where to Find the Store P347 Today

Genuine P347 clips appear at vintage fairs, estate sales, and online marketplaces. Prices vary depending on condition and shell colour. A clip with all shells intact, no cracks, and a working spring typically sells for £25–£45. Clips with deeper brown mottling or unusually symmetrical shells can fetch up to £60. Be wary of listings that describe the clip as "vintage style" or "cowrie-inspired" — these are almost always modern reproductions. Look for sellers who specify the model number or show clear photos of the reverse side of the clip.

If you already own a P347, consider pairing it with other mid-century accessories from the same era. The Burberry Shoe Boot Hair Clip offers a contrasting equestrian aesthetic that complements the oceanic feel of the cowrie clip — both are rooted in British accessory craftsmanship of the 1960s.

Final Practical Note

One detail that many collectors overlook: the P347 clip works best on hair that is at least shoulder-length and has some texture. On very fine or slippery hair, the alligator clip may slide. A small dab of hair wax at the roots before clipping provides enough grip without damaging the shells. If you have thick or curly hair, the P347 can hold a section of hair up to about 2 cm in diameter — enough for a substantial twist but not for an entire updo. For heavier styles, double up with a second clip or use a sturdier barrette as the primary anchor.