Decoding the Malena Dul Uno p108 Hair Clip: History, Identification, and Care
The 'p108' prefix in the Malena Dul Uno archival system identifies a specific family of hair clips produced between 1954 and 1957, distinguished by a compact spring-hinge mechanism and a reinforced back plate. Unlike the earlier p103 series, which used a bent-wire closure, p108 clips rely on a tiny coiled spring housed inside a brass cylinder—an innovation that allowed the clip to hold firmly without snagging fine hair. The code itself, once you understand the logic, tells you almost everything about the piece.
Decoding the HTML: What the Numbers Mean
Malena Dul Uno’s in-house coding system uses a letter-number sequence stored in a simple HTML-style markup on the original inventory lists. The 'p' stands for 'plate'—the flat backing that gives the clip its strength. The number 108 refers to the specific die used for the outer shell, a mould that produced a slightly curved, almond-shaped profile about 4 cm long. The HTML suffix that often follows (for example, p108-H or p108-T) indicates the primary material: H for horn, T for tortoiseshell (usually celluloid), L for lucite, and B for bakelite. A plain p108 without suffix generally means the clip was made in pressed horn, the default material for that run.
Identifying Authentic p108 Pieces
Genuine p108 clips have a very consistent look. The front surface is smooth and slightly domed, with a subtle lip around the edge that catches the light. On the reverse, you will find a tiny stamped 'p108'—usually in three neat digits, with the letter suffix to the right. The stamp is shallow but crisp; later reproductions tend to have deeper, uneven impressions. The hinge pin is flush with the brass cylinder, never protruding. If you hold the clip sideways, you should see a tiny slit where the spring sits—a detail many fakes omit.
Materials and Craftsmanship
Most p108 clips combine pressed horn (often ox horn) with a brass spring mechanism. The horn was heated, shaped in the die, and then hand-polished to a warm gloss. The brass parts were assembled by hand in a small workshop attached to the Dul Uno atelier in Clerkenwell, London. This mix of industrial moulding and hand finishing gives p108 pieces a feel that sits between mass production and bespoke jewellery. The spring tension is firm but not stiff—ideal for securing a side sweep or a small French roll without pulling.
Styling the p108 Clip Today
Despite its mid-century origin, the p108 clip works effortlessly with modern wardrobes. The neutral browns and blacks of the horn versions blend into any hair colour, while the lucite models (p108-L) add a gentle pop of 1950s turquoise or coral. Wear one as a side clip to hold back a braided crown, or use two as bookends for a low bun. The compact size also makes it a perfect accent on a shorter bob. For a more polished look, pair with a classic squared headband—the Black Satin Squared Headband: A Vintage British Style Icon provides a clean contrast against the warm horn tones.
Caring for Your p108 Clip
Horn is sensitive to heat and humidity. Never store a p108 clip in direct sunlight or near a radiator, as the material can warp or crack. Keep it in a padded box or a soft pouch, ideally separate from metal accessories that might scratch the surface. If the spring feels tight, a tiny drop of sewing machine oil on the hinge pin (applied with a toothpick) can restore smooth movement. For long-term preservation, many collectors record the exact code in their archive using a coordinate system—the method outlined in The C37 Coordinate System: A Collector's Method for Preserving Vintage Hair Accessories helps maintain provenance and condition notes alongside the physical piece.
Key Characteristics of a Genuine p108 Clip
- Stamped 'p108' plus optional suffix (H, T, L, B) on the reverse
- Compact almond shape, approx. 4 cm tall
- Brass cylinder hinge with flush pin
- Horn or celluloid front, hand-polished to a sheen
- Spring mechanism that closes firmly without gap
- No visible screws or rivets on the front face
Inspect the reverse for the engraved 'p108' and note the letter suffix; a missing suffix often indicates a later reproduction or a piece from a different production line. With these details in hand, you can confidently identify, wear, and preserve a genuine slice of mid-century British hair accessory history.