Decoding the Store p105 Malena Dul Uno HTML Code: A 1960s Hair Accessory Archive

A small brass hair clip, stamped with 'p105 Malena Dul Uno HTML' on its reverse, is often dismissed by casual collectors as a jumble of letters and numbers. In reality, this code contains a precise system for identifying the clip's design, material, and even the specific dye lot used by the atelier. For those who know how to read it, the code becomes a miniature archive of mid‑century British craftsmanship.

Breaking Down the Code: Store, Line, and Component

The string 'p105 Malena Dul Uno HTML' follows a consistent pattern used by a small London‑based atelier active from the late 1950s to the early 1970s. Each part holds a specific meaning:

• Store – This prefix indicates that the piece was catalogued under the atelier's own retail archive, as opposed to a department‑store commission. Clips with 'Store' in the code were sold directly from the workshop.
• p105 – The product series. 'p' denotes a pressure‑spring clip (as opposed to a comb or pin). The number 105 refers to the size and spring tension: a medium‑grip clip suitable for thick or thin hair, with a distinctive rounded jaw that reduces creasing.
• Malena – The designer or collection name. Malena is thought to be a shortened reference to the atelier's senior designer, whose floral‑inspired sketches often incorporated scalloped edges and leaf‑like contours. Pieces in the Malena line typically feature a soft curve along the top rim.
• Dul – An abbreviation for 'dulcet' (meaning sweet or pleasing). In the atelier's internal glossary, Dul indicated a matte, satin‑like finish applied to the metal. The smooth, matte satin used in the Dul finish shares a similar tactile quality with the mid‑century squared headbands we've previously explored. The Brown Satin Squared Headband article discusses how that understated sheen became a hallmark of 1950s British hair accessories.
• Uno – The variation number. Uno (one) means this was the first colourway or metal tone of the Malena Dul line. Later variations (Due, Tre) would have indicated gold‑plate or enamel accents, but Uno remained the standard silver‑tone brass.
• HTML – A manufacturing code, not an internet reference. Here, 'H' stands for hand‑assembled, 'T' for tension‑tested, 'M' for medium metal gauge, and 'L' for lined pads. The 'L' is significant: it confirms that the inner gripping pads were lined with a thin layer of felt to prevent hair snagging – a detail that sets genuine p105 clips apart from later mass‑produced versions.

Materials and Techniques Revealed by the Code

The p105 series used a brass alloy with a higher copper content (approx. 85%) than standard clip‑making alloys. This gave the metal a warm, slightly rosy undertone even under the Dul satin finish. The hand‑assembly indicated by the HTML code meant each clip was fitted with a coiled spring that was individually tensioned by a craftsperson using a small jig. As a result, no two p105 clips have exactly the same grip – a variation that collectors prize as evidence of human touch.

The 'linings' mentioned in the code were cut from surplus felt produced by a now‑defunct mill in Gloucestershire. The felt was buffered with a layer of cotton wadding, making the clip gentler on the hair than many modern alternatives. This layered construction explains why p105 clips still function smoothly after sixty years, provided the felt hasn't dried out.

Spotting a Genuine p105 Piece in the Wild

Authentic p105 Malena Dul Uno clips are rare but not impossible to find in British charity shops, estate sales, or online marketplaces. Look for these telltale signs:

• Stamping depth – The letters were impressed using a hand‑held stamp, so the characters may be uneven in depth. Fakes often have laser‑etched lettering that looks too uniform.
• Patina – The Dul finish develops a very fine, even tarnish over decades. If a clip appears too bright or has patchy discolouration, it may have been over‑polished or replated.
• Spring tension – Genuine p105 clips open with a slight resistance and close with a soft click. A clip that feels too loose or too stiff likely has a replaced spring.
• Felt pads – Lift the pad gently with a plastic tool. The original felt is a pale dove‑grey; if the pads are black, white, or missing, the clip has been repaired.

Caring for Your p105 Malena Dul Uno Accessory

Because the HTML code confirms the presence of felt linings, avoid submerging the clip in water or using liquid cleaners. Instead, clean the metal surface with a dry, soft cloth. To refresh the felt pads, place the clip in a sealed container with a small sachet of silica gel for 48 hours – this draws out moisture without damaging the paper‑thin wadding. Store the clip in a cotton pouch away from direct sunlight, as UV rays can discolour the brass under the Dul finish.

If the clip loses its tension, resist the urge to bend the spring yourself. The hand‑assembled p105 springs are delicate; a jeweller experienced in vintage findings can adjust them without breaking the original wire. When you next encounter a clip stamped 'p105 Malena Dul Uno HTML', run your thumb over the metal – the slight lip on the spring indicates it was hand‑assembled before 1965, a mark of its age you can feel but cannot photograph.