The p104 Hair Comb: Decoding Malena Dul Uno’s Vintage Tags
The letters HTML on a small white tag sewn to a vintage hair comb have nothing to do with the internet. On the tags used by the London accessories studio Malena Dul Uno, HTML stands for Hair Trim Material List, a stockroom abbreviation that tells a collector exactly which comb blank, ribbon and finish were used for a single piece. The code Store p104 appears on the same tag, and it is one of the most useful dating tools for British hair accessories from the early 1960s.
Malena Dul Uno was not a department store or a mass-market brand. It was a small London workshop that made limited runs of decorative combs, headbands and clips for independent boutiques. The name is usually read as a single maker's mark; the word Uno was used to indicate a one-off piece. A p104 is therefore not a production model in the modern sense, but a numbered example from a small batch of individually finished accessories.
What the code means
The full code on the tag breaks down into four parts. Collectors who learn to read it can often place a piece within a two-year window, because the studio changed its material list codes in 1963 and again in 1968.
| Code element | Meaning | Collector's note |
|---|---|---|
| Store | The studio's sample cabinet | The word 'Store' refers to the shelf where the master sample was kept, not to a shop. |
| p | Passementerie section | p stands for passementerie, the decorative ribbon and braid used on the piece. |
| 104 | Entry number in the section | The 104th sample entered in the passementerie ledger. |
| Malena Dul Uno | Maker's mark | The workshop name, printed in capitals. |
| HTML | Hair Trim Material List | The list of materials attached to the tag. |
In practice, the tag might read Store p104 / Malena Dul Uno / H.T.M.L. with the material list written in pencil on the reverse. Some tags are printed; others are handwritten. The presence of the full stop after each letter is a good sign of an early tag, from the first years of the studio.
The p104 comb itself
The most common p104 piece is a curved comb with five to seven broad teeth, cut from a sheet of cellulose acetate or vulcanite. The top edge is shaped like a shell or a wave, and a silk or rayon ribbon is woven through the teeth. The ribbon is not glued; it is threaded through small holes at the base of the teeth and tied at the back with a tiny knot. This construction makes the p104 unusually flexible and comfortable to wear.
Here's what to look for:
- A cream or off-white tag, about 2.5 cm square, with the maker's mark in capitals.
- The handwritten code p104 in blue or black ink.
- A comb with no metal spring or hinge; the p104 is a one-piece comb.
- A ribbon woven through the teeth, not wrapped around them.
- A small brass bead or glass pearl at the centre of the top edge on later examples.
Materials and techniques
The p104 belongs to a period when British accessory makers were moving away from heavy metal clips and towards lighter, more sculptural materials. Cellulose acetate could be heated and bent into a curve that followed the shape of the head, which made the comb far more comfortable than earlier vulcanite pieces. The ribbon was usually a silk passementerie in deep claret, moss green, navy or black. The studio often combined a matte comb with a slightly glossy ribbon, so the accessory caught the light without looking shiny.
The ribbon technique
On a p104, the ribbon is not simply tied around the comb. A single length of ribbon, roughly 30 cm long, is folded in half and threaded from the front to the back through a small hole near the base of each tooth. It is then brought up again through the next gap, creating a ladder-like effect on the front and a clean line of knots on the back. This is why the ribbon stays in place even after decades of use; the tension is held by the comb itself, not by glue.
Dating the tag
Early p104 tags, from around 1960 to 1963, use a full stop after each letter: H.T.M.L. Later tags, from 1964 onward, simply read HTML. The comb material also changed. Early examples are usually dark tortoiseshell acetate; later examples are clear or honey-coloured. If you find a p104 with a brass bead at the centre, it is almost certainly from the later batch, because the studio introduced the bead in 1966.
Common variations
Collectors sometimes find a second number written after p104, such as p104/2 or p104/7. This indicates the position of the piece within the batch. The studio kept a ledger in which each finished comb was listed with its date and the name of the boutique that ordered it. A p104/1 is the first example from that batch; a p104/7 is the seventh. The numbering is not a size or colour code, so it should not be used to judge rarity.
Why collectors value it
Because each p104 was finished by hand, no two examples are identical. The tooth spacing varies slightly, and the ribbon knot is often tied in a slightly different position. This individuality is precisely what attracts collectors of British vintage accessories. If you enjoy the quiet, hand-finished feel of this kind of piece, the vintage Romaine clips from the same period share the same ethos; both were designed to be worn with everyday tailoring, not saved for special occasions.
Collectors also value the p104 because it survives well. The materials are stable when stored properly, and the tag is usually still attached because the ribbon holds it in place. A p104 with an intact tag is far more useful to a collector than a loose comb, because it can be dated and matched to the studio's ledger.
Where to find a p104
Because Malena Dul Uno pieces were sold through small shops, they rarely appear in large lots. The best places to look are mixed boxes of vintage haberdashery, antiques fairs with a 1960s fashion section, and online auctions where sellers photograph the backs of accessories. Search for terms like 'vintage silk ribbon comb' or '1960s hair comb with label'. The tag is small, so always ask for a close-up of any printed text.
How to care for a p104
The main risk to a p104 is not age but improper storage. Cellulose acetate can warp if it is left near a radiator or in direct sunlight, and the ribbon can fade if the comb is displayed on a bright windowsill. Follow these steps:
- Store the comb flat in a drawer or box, never hanging by the ribbon.
- Wrap it in acid-free tissue paper; do not use plastic bags, which trap moisture.
- Keep the tag attached. The tag is the only record of the material list, and it adds significant provenance.
- Clean the comb with a soft, dry cloth. Do not soak it or use cleaning sprays.
- If the ribbon becomes loose, do not glue it. Thread a fine needle with a matching silk thread and tack the ribbon to the back of the comb at the original knot position.
If the comb has a slight smell of old plastic, air it in a dry room for a few days, away from direct sunlight. Do not use a hairdryer or place it on a radiator. The smell usually fades once the comb has adjusted to normal room humidity.
Wearing a p104 today
A p104 comb works surprisingly well with a modern wardrobe. Slide it into a low chignon, use it to hold back a side-swept section, or place it at the nape of the neck with a simple knit polo neck. The ribbon gives it a soft, romantic texture that balances tailored pieces. For a braided texture with a similar 1960s mood, the Sidney braided headband is a useful reference, but the p104 is lighter and sits closer to the scalp, which makes it a better choice for fine hair.
The comb is not designed for high ponytails or very thick, heavy hair; the teeth are fine and may bend under pressure. Instead, treat it as a finishing piece. A low bun, a loose side part or a half-up style all allow the ribbon to be seen while keeping the comb secure. Pair it with a cream silk scarf, a trench coat or a simple wool dress; the accessory should feel like a small piece of jewellery, not a statement.
If you spot a p104 at a flea market, check the back of the tag for pencil notes—they often list the original boutique. One collector found a p104 with 'Liberty London' scrawled in faint handwriting, a direct link to a 1962 order. Lay the comb flat in acid-free tissue, tag side up, and keep it away from damp. That small white square is the only surviving record of the studio's material list; once the ink fades, the code is gone. You are not just keeping a pretty comb—you are holding a thread of London's post-war accessory trade.