The Enduring Appeal of Striped Hair Accessories in British Fashion

When I first unwrapped a late-Victorian striped tortoiseshell comb at a Portobello Road stall, I assumed the alternating light and dark bands were a decorative afterthought—a bit of whimsy added to an otherwise utilitarian object. I was wrong. That comb, with its slender teeth and gently arched top, carried a deliberate design language rooted in the 1850s, when French and British comb-makers began laminating thin layers of natural tortoiseshell in contrasting colours to create a striped effect known as "jaspé." The technique was painstaking: sheets of shell were heated, pressed together, and then cut into combs so that the stripes ran perpendicular to the teeth. The result was not merely pretty; it was a statement of craftsmanship that announced the wearer’s discernment long before she ever pinned it into her hair.

Stripes in hair accessories have never been a passing fancy. The bold ribboned bands of 1920s flappers and the subtle pin-striped acetate slides of the 1950s both prove that the motif offers something no solid colour can: movement, rhythm, and a quiet nod to geometry. In British fashion, where restraint often reigns, a striped hair clip or headband provides just enough visual interest without tipping into ostentation. The decades that followed show how stripes adapted to changing tastes, and why they remain a collector’s favourite today.

The Language of Stripes: Materials and Techniques

Before synthetic plastics, stripes were achieved through lamination or weaving. In the Edwardian period, celluloid combs and hairpins were often moulded with marbled or striped effects by injecting two or more colours into the same die. The British company Leichner, known for theatrical make-up, also produced a line of striped hair ornaments that mimicked tortoiseshell at a fraction of the cost. These pieces are now highly sought after because the celluloid can develop a warm, honeyed patina that enhances the stripe contrast.

Another technique, common in the 1930s and 1940s, involved wrapping fine metal wire with coloured silk thread to create striped hair bands and barrettes. These "thread-wrapped" accessories were often handmade by small millinery workshops in London’s East End. The stripes were not printed but woven—each band a tiny textile in its own right. If you find a striped barrette from this era, examine the underside: uneven tension in the thread wrap is a sign of handcraft, not a flaw.

Stripes in the Silhouette: The 1920s to the 1970s

The 1920s saw stripes explode in popularity, thanks in part to the Art Deco movement’s love of geometric patterns. Hairbands and headpieces made of grosgrain ribbon in alternating navy and white, or emerald and gold, were worn low on the forehead, often paired with a single feather or jewel. These were not subtle accessories; they were designed to catch the light as a woman danced the Charleston. The stripes served a practical purpose too: they helped the ribbon lie flat against the hair, preventing slippage during energetic movement.

By the 1950s, stripes had softened. The classic French twist was often anchored by a striped tortoiseshell comb, its bands running horizontally to echo the lines of the chignon. British women favoured combs with two or three broad stripes rather than many narrow ones—a preference that mirrored the clean, confident tailoring of the era’s suits. A particularly lovely example is the "Straight Jacket Comb" from the 1950s, which we explored in an earlier post; its striped acetate version remains a collector’s holy grail. The Straight Jacket Comb: A Century of British Style in One Accessory explores how that specific silhouette evolved.

The 1960s and 1970s brought a playful revival: wide striped headbands made of plastic or fabric, often in psychedelic colour combinations. British women adapted them from the mod look, pairing a black-and-white striped band with a simple shift dress. These are abundant in vintage markets today, but quality varies. Look for bands with intact elastic or adjustable combs—many have perished rubber that can be replaced by a skilled restorer.

Collecting Striped Hair Accessories: What to Look For

• Material integrity. Celluloid and early Bakelite can develop cracks along the stripes due to differential shrinkage. A hairline crack is acceptable if it does not compromise the structure; a full break is not.
• Stripe clarity. The best pieces have sharp, even borders between colours. Faded or bleeding stripes indicate poor dye quality or prolonged sun exposure.
• Maker’s marks. British manufacturers such as De Lido, Coro (for the UK market), and small London workshops often stamped their pieces. A mark adds provenance and value.
• Functionality. A striped comb must still hold hair effectively. Test the tension of the teeth gently—if they spread too easily, the comb has lost its grip.

For a broader look at collecting vintage hair accessories, including striped pieces, the guide All Things Dangly and Beautiful: A Guide to Vintage Hair Accessories offers practical advice on evaluating condition and authenticity.

Wearing Stripes Today: A Practical Approach

Striped vintage accessories pair surprisingly well with modern minimalist wardrobes. A single striped barrette in black and cream can anchor a sleek low ponytail, while a wide striped headband adds a touch of 1970s bohemia to a linen dress. The key is to let the accessory be the focal point—keep the rest of your outfit simple in colour and texture. If you’re layering multiple striped pieces (say, a comb and a hairband), ensure the stripe widths and directions match; mixing thick stripes with thin ones can look chaotic.

Care for striped pieces depends on the material. For celluloid and Bakelite, avoid prolonged heat and direct sunlight, which can cause the stripes to fade or the material to warp. Clean gently with a soft, dry cloth—never use alcohol or acetone, as they will dissolve the surface. For fabric-covered bands, spot-clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, then air dry flat. Store striped accessories away from solid-coloured ones to prevent dye transfer, especially if the stripes are dark.

One final note: striped pieces from the 1940s often used a cellulose acetate that is particularly sensitive to humidity. If you live in a damp climate, place a silica gel packet in your storage box. This small step can preserve the crispness of those narrow black-and-white lines for decades to come.